Seawind II Words

Volume 92, No. 1 March 1992

Editorial Contact: Dick Manuel
P.O. Box 422
Shelter I. Hts, NY 11965

Phone: (516) 749-8964


Organizing teams in each of four Fleet areas have been contacted, with the proposal that owners in those areas be invited to a gathering (or, "gam"). Agenda items suggested were: (1) An annual "sail-in", or perhaps a Fleet cruise, or other regular annual or semi-annual get-together; (2) need or desire for a formalized SW II Organization, and what kind.. National, Fleet only, other? (3) A campaign to locate additional SW II owners (and candidate Associates).

The Organizing Teams are:


Don Bundy (Leader), (813) 848-4188
Ed Costello, (407) 229-2093
Jack Silcox, (407) 546-9243


Larry Fransen (Ldr) (301) 849-5974

Lamar Neville (301) 849-8050
Ed Rhudy (919) 249-0268
Richard White (804) 384-5273


Stan Burdick (Ldr) (203) 245-3334

Dick Schaeffer (203) 633-8479
Charles Jacobs (203) 226-5171


John Noyes/Karen

Thompson (Leaders) (614) 863-8965
David Neth (419) 229-2541

George Rowcliffe (614) 272-7660

Other organization areas with immediate potential are on the west coast: (Should we consider 3 or 5 boats in an area to qualify for Fleet status? Write and express your opinions.)


John Winters (Ldr) (206) 883-7913

Peter Knowles (503) 382-0117

(Owner Unknown) Anacortes, WA


John McVey (Leader) (209) 668-8152

Helmet Gebhardt.... (415) 527-0854 (and what about the L.A./Long Beach/San Diego areas? Can we survey that scene?)

Let's not forget the HIGH SEAS owners, ever on their course to some distant destination. If ever there were a "fleet worthy of distinctive recognition, it is that group of fellow-owners who are utilizing the ideal characteristics of our fair SEAWIND II design as intended. Identification and communications are another matter! How about some readership thoughts on this? And a volunteer leader???

Some ownerships may be singularly located - - OVERSEAS, and/or far from the fleet areas identified above. Where geography precludes affiliation with a fleet of at least minimum number of boats, 3 - 5 we might say, shall we classify them as ISOLATED as the International Star Class used to do? Perhaps INDEPENDENT sounds better? Here again, how about input from those who might qualify for this status - -and volunteers to be the leader!

So there you have it! A sea bag full of ideas to be worked over. The whole concept of "fleets" might be dropped in favor of a single National/International Organization of owners, where ever they may be. Talk it over at the "gams"; send me a note with your ideas.


To-date, we have reasonable indications of ownership & addresses for 64 boat owners. Against the 129 boats known to have been built (and perhaps there were a few more, were there?), our "Search & Rescue" efforts have achieved a batting average of about .500. (One boat that we know of was destroyed by fire some years ago.)

Included in the foregoing figures are the following "newcomers":


059K - Doug & Dee Smith

072K - Thomas Radick

104K - Peter & Terrie Silcox

110K - George Kennedy


108 - Francis & Jeneane Collings

? - H. Lee Brooks

In 1991, Peter Knowles acquired 010K in Seattle. He is in touch with John Winters (083C), whose MANDALA is berthed at Bainbridge Island, across from Seattle. John reports also seeing another SW II at Anacortes, WA, but as yet no details are available.


(Boats, Equipment, Facilities, Svcs)

J.T."Vic" Vallas, whose address is in our Associates Roster, attached, wants the following:

SW II CUTTER for bluewater cruising/liveaboard. Second choice would be an Allied Princess 36 Cutter. Phone (908) 870-0529.

Len Bristow, whose address is given in the Associates Roster, seeks contact with SW II owners desiring to sell. He is uncertain about rig preference, and might consider a Seawind 30 as an alternative. He has been sent copies of the SW II write-up from Arthur Beiser's book, THE PROPER YACHT, and also the excerpt, "The Allied Seawind II: Staying Power", from THE COMPLETE BOOK OF SAILBOAT BUYING, VOL. II (Taken from PRACTICAL SAILOR, 15 January 1982). No phone no. avail. 

SW II 027K, owned by William Laing (address in the roster), is for sale. The boat is listed with Fairwinds Yachts at Greenport, NY, (516) 477-0124 (Bill Farrar, Mngr). If you want to talk to Bill Laing (pronounced Lang), call (516) 427-4769.

SW II 122K may still be on the market. Haven't seen an ad recently. Perhaps Nelson and Sherry Loucks have changed their minds and decided to keep "Daybreak". You can reach them at (914) 534-8616 (or, get their address from the ownership roster).

BOAT EXCHANGE: George Rowcliffe, who is currently cruising on a chartered boat in the Caribbean, has expressed interest in the idea of boat exchanges. The aim is to facilitate cruising in distant waterways without the problem of getting your own boat there, or the expense of chartering one. If there are others interested in this concept, drop us a line. We'll match up interested parties and publish the list next time

Sails, anchors, dinghys, electronics, boat deliveries, crews wanted/offered. What do you have? What do you want? Let's hear from you!

---------- # ----------



A smart salute must go to the Bundys (129K), for getting our SW2W issues printed in timely fashion at the best (read lowest) prices I've ever heard of. The masters are mailed to Don and Brenda for printing in Florida, and then the printed & collated copies are shipped back to Shelter Island by UPS for distribution.

My successor as Editor of SEAWIND II WORDS - - and some "fresh air" would be appropriate, starting not later than early 1993 - - will find the Bundys (if Don & Brenda don't take on the editing job, themselves) to be skilled publishers and good counselors. Thanks, Don and Brenda, for a great job!

-------------------- # --------------------


Input during the past 4 months has been impressive. Most of this is attached hereto as ANNEXES. Where appropriate, some of the correspondence has been trimmed a bit without cutting substance of likely interest to our readership.

A few handwritten letters have been typed to meet the print-contrast requirements of the almighty copying machine. (The previous issue's Roster left much to be desired and deciphered. It was the fault of your editor's poor typing of the master. Sorry.)

(Seaweb Note: This project is not carried out on the posted page due to formatting problems. It is still an ongoing project to catagorize all information and post it to the knowledge base - Howard) The attached ANNEXES are listed below in a format that relates them to the subject/categories of potential interest to SEAWIND II owners. Page numbers of each ANNEX are given in the subject/category column for which the writer has provided information or identified concerns, etc.

This is an experimental (and somewhat amateur) effort to start the project of sorting & classifying our vast archive of information contained in past issues of SEAWIND WORDS/SEAWIND II WORDS. The goal remains the production of a LOG OF SEAWIND II CHANGES & INNOVATIONS.

I remain hopeful that some ambitious, talented, journalistic person(s) will rescue this project and carry it forward in an efficient manner. Perhaps specialists in one or more of the subject/categories (as shown, or realistically revised) will step forward to work with a chief editor/publisher. Drop me a line with your offers and ideas. ... soon, please.

FROM RANDALL S., OF JENSEN BEACH MANCHESTER, ASSOCIATE, FL.*"Ed Costello, (owner of) SW2 765, CYTHERA (an island near which a Greek goddess arose from the sea), mentioned my name in his note to you. I need to quickly correct my title.'

I had just retired as a Norton Co. Coated Abrasive Vice President when, three days later, Northam Warren, the founder, owner, and motivating force of The Allied Boat Co. agreed that I might participate with the small resident management team in Catskill, N.Y., just off the Hudson River. I did not have a financial interest.

The challenge was to build 30 quality fiberglass sailing yachts, 30 to 42 feet long, in May, June, and July, '71. My task as a Management Engineer (PE) was to facilitate quality and production, maintain and improve job relations, morale, and safety.

Northam had developed a capable nucleus of working, skilled supervisors resident in Catskill who readily produced Allied yachts. He had selected yacht designers, beautiful hull shapes, sturdy molds, fiberglassing equipment, state-of-the-art techniques, etc., etc., that so successfully replaced wooden hull construction and cost. He combined beautifully shaped hulls and decks with safe power, cabinetry, electrical, plumbing, upholstery, rigging, etc. Superior supplier, good tools, adequate buildings, a supply inventory, cranes, hoists, jigs, templates, and laminating techniques, local machining shops rounded out an unusual small yacht facility.

Dealers and customers were convinced that Allied yachts were outstanding. To support and keep such a plant occupied required regular sales at fair prices. Catskill area labor rates were comparatively low for the skills required. No unions were involved. Taxes, power, fuel, etc., were in line. Price competition was tough, but quality and reputation were tops.

The plant supervisors, Joe Martin -General Foreman, Al Vanscht -Fiberglassing Superforeman, Al Hock -Woodworking & Cabinetry, Joe's father-in-law Lloyd ? -Rigging, Marine -Hardware, Eddie -Purchasing & Stores, an electrical wiring and protection man - - and several others, all pulled together so well that a beautiful new Seawind could be turned out in about 6 weeks utilizing 1,500 to 2,000 manhours, with each man feeling the responsibility to produce a seaworthy, manageable yacht.

The market for such yachts varied as badly and sometimes parallel with the N.Y. stock market. While overhead costs increased at a steady pace, earnings followed New York weather changes. Balancing the two while facing price competition finally became an unreasonable task, and Mr. Warren "bowed out" to enjoy life in Florida. I had worked through the summer and fall of 1971 when I left to winter in Florida, also.

Later in the 1970s I stopped in the plant to renew acquaintances. I found Mr. Robert 0. Wright and his son, Paul, who had arranged to start up the plant again. Most of the skilled foremen and artisans were still in the Catskill area. The Seawind molds (and others) were on site. Mr. Wright and I agreed that I could be supportive on a part-time-as-convenient basis.

Paul was an engineering type and a real asset to his dad and the operation. He and his wife moved to the Catskill area. Bob and his wife retained their upstate Mohawk Valley residence. Many steps were taken to upgrade Seawind detail and provide layout options. Consistent sales remained the problem, even with volume from Mistresses, XL-2s, etc.

* Typed from Randall Manchester's original letter. Any errors are those of the typist/editor of SEAWIND II WORDS

In an effort to provide further plusses, Bob asked me to put a manual together. Paul and I collaborated, and Bob's secretary did the typing. I wrote it to serve (by inserting data pages) the entire Allied Wright line. I had a hundred or so pages produced in a copy shop in Albany and we collated them on the rigging loft work bench. I tried to incorporate as much "owners manual" type data as practical. Having read several of your groups' 1980s suggestion ideas, experiences with detail boat arrangements, etc., I should have had such a source in Catskill.'

I am sure all your contributors enjoyed telling their ideas, suggestions, queries, and real sailing experiences as much as I did putting the manual together. Your SEAWIND II WORDS printing budget, etc., closely resembles my experiences.

After Seawind II #76 was delivered to a gentleman sailor in Florida, I met her as an old friend. I made a few modifications, and even produced a 3-part Teachers Scotch liquor rack - - teak, with Teachers Scotch bottle shape, on the port bulkhead. Five or so years later, Ed had become her owner, so I see her every day now. Ed keeps her in great shape. (Ed. note: Coming from the builder, that's got to be an outstanding compliment.')

I also have a cottage on Johns Bay, Maine, just east of Boothbay Harbor. A great sailing couple drop in on their Seabreeze every year as they gunk-hole the Maine coast. Our cove provides a great anchoring area.

I gleaned my boatbuilding knowledge from Addison McFarland and his sons, grandsons, etc. Some of them are still building wooden boats in their eighties - - but then I'll be 83 pretty soon, myself

(Ed Note: I'm quite sure that Northam Warren, too, could recount a fascinating history of his experiences - - good times and bad, good friends & customers and some of lesser ranking - - that would provide an authentic account of the yacht-building business in the 1960s and 70s.

Hopefully, our South East (SE) Fleet people will soon be able to convene the SEAWIND II "family" in their area - - owners & Associates, perhaps former builders, and even brokers and journalists - - all of whom share the same affection for the marvelously designed and wellbuilt boat that we all enjoy so much.)



As a new year is well underway, a Seawind 30 rendezvous is in the planning stages.

Thus far, during the secretaryts tenure of office since 1989, only two meetings have actually been organized. One in Padanarum of So. Dartmouth, Mass. and in the Solomon Islands on the west shore of the Chesapeake Bay.

Both functions were well attended by owners, but weather conditions prevented more boats from attending the Chesapeake affair. Hence, nearly 3 years has passed since any formal gathering has occurred. So this year, let's try a rendezvous in the south!

I have discussed the time and location with four peope whose Seawinds are berthed between Miami and Key Largo. Several areas are being considered -- Key Largo, Elliott Key in Biscayne Bay and Dinner Key at Coconut Grove near Miami.

Considering some owners might not be able to sail to the meeting and would come by car instead, Dinner Key might be the logical choice. However, Stuart Fox and John Damstra both of Key Largo are looking into other sites in the Keys area.

One thing certain is the date! APRIL 11 & 12, on a Saturday and Sunday. Please mark this on your calendar. With this advance notice, maybe some of you in the north could break loose from the winter's cold to attend?

Counting Florida boats, there are 18 of us who languish in the sunshine of the Florida state. From this number we should have a good turn out.

The date is firm - APRIL 11th & 12th. Plan to attend! More later!

The holiday season in December closed in on me so fast, it was not possible to include in the December newsletter the story of my trip to Catskill, N.Y. last October.

While visiting my son and family on Long Island, I borrowed their car and drove up to Catskill on the Hudson River, the former site of the Allied Boat Co.

Through an acguaintance in Florida I learned his daughter lives permanently in that village. Apprising her of my intentions to track down information about Allied and my impending visit to their town, she informed me of her friend, Glen Neal. He was a foreman who worked six years for Allied.

A meeting was coordinated with my arrival and I experienced.the most delightful two hour session reflecting on Glen's days with the company during its more productive years.

Glen was the man in charge of all the wood work and custom finishing for all Seawind 30's (and many other of Allied's products) from 1966 to 1972. He sensed the coming demise of Allied during his final year and made the decision to leave.

At the conclusion of our visit (which I have recorded on tape) he sat up in his chair and said: "You own the Seawind 30, don't you?" Proudly, I responded: "Yes"! With this he emerged from his chair, went to a shop in his basement and brought back a two part (hull and deck) fiberglass model of the Seawind 30 - scale 1" to a foot, a 30 inch model!!

It was covered with 20 years of dust and held together with masking tape. "Here", he replied, "I have no use for this, and I'm sure it means something to you!" Well talk about Mel Fisher's ATOCHA treasure, - money not withstanding, your secretary was elated beyond words.

A picture is attached with the newsletter to give you an idea how it looks. My intentions are to find a professional model maker to finish it to the exact details of KOHINOOR including the mahogany propane box mounted on the cabin deck. Anyone who is acguainted with top notch model maker (who can work with fiberglass) please contact me.

Do any of you know of a similar model? Allied must have made several of these for boat shows as demonstration for their marketing programs? Glen Neal was unable to come up with background information.

The next day at Catskill, I ventured south through town to the edge of Catskill Creek and pondered a vast open, recently graded lot.

Real estate developers have built the first ten of fifty town houses planned for this site. Each will have its own boat slip, which is the main attraction.

"OVERKILL" is my description of the crowded condition of fifty town houses on this six acre plot. Twenty five would do the project proud. Strange how greed transforms the judgement of human beings.

Some of you may have noticed in the December newsletter no mention was made of our valiant young sailor, Dan Jelsema, #l37 STELLA POLARIS. It was for good reason his story was omitted. His family had no direct contact with him since August. Though, by way of friends of Dan in Bali, they did hear indirect news in September. No phone call, no letter in all those months.

His father expected word to be received from Durban, So Africa some time in December, anticipating Dan would be leaving Bali, Indonesia with a stop at Coco Kealings or the Seychelles or both.

It is difficult, but we must all understand the now 19 year old boy has the very mature mind of an adult. Probably you and I might feel compelled to consider the worry our family back home is experiencing but Dan is truly an independent - a died in the wool, single-handed- solo sailor.

His father told me about their visit to South New Zealand by car. The remotest place in the world! His instructions to Dan "don't sail here!" went unheeded. This story was told in Cruising World's December issue.

As December past and January emerged, the Jelsema's in Key Largo were still awaiting word from Dan - five months since direct contact - four months since indirect word. The family, along with your secretary, were consumed by all sorts of tragic thoughts! After this many months, the prognosis did not bode well!

Then, in early January word via a ham radio operator confirmed Dan was sighted still near Bali on Dec. 12th. This information was transmitted through a Ham radio operator in Australia. A long distance call to Australia brought further information to the father, Dan had left for Durban So. Africa Dec. 3rd.

720 My wife Jeanine and I had lunch with the senior Jelsemas in Key Largo, but still many questions were cloudy about his condition, the boat and his E.T.A. at Durban.

Finally, the 6th of February, Dan called from Durban. He arrived there Feb. 3rd. He sailed straight through from Bali to his destination by way of the southern route - travelling south of Madagascar.

This leg of the voyage covered 5,000 miles in 60 days. Few of us can imagine being on a small boat, seein nothing but ocean for this length of time!

With $200. remaining while enjoying Bali, Dan felt it was time to buy supplies and get started for Africa. Prices are very low for everything in this part of Indonesia. However, he ran out of food and water during the voyage and relied on his ability to catch fish and rain water to sustain himself.

At this point, no other detailed information is available, but he is safe in port again while a much relieved father and grandmother regroup for the next few months. Jack Jelsema boarded a plane in Miami on February 10th to fly to Durban to spend a month with Dan. I suspect Dan will begin the last leg of the trip in April.


Don Casey l22 RICHARD CORY of Dinner Key Marina in Florida has written a book published by International Marine and I am including the notice in their catalog with this newsletter. In addition, Torn Gillmer has completed his book on THE PRIDE OF BALTIMORE. A separate page shows the write up of the material he has covered. I felt these two items to be of interest to all of us.


Don Casey

Buying and remodeling a rundown production boat is often the only way for those of modest means to obtain a boat that satisfies their tastes. Overproduction of fiberglass boats in the 1970's has left boatyards littered with suitable candidates at attractive prices. Everything 'ou need to know to turn a back-of-theboatyard castoff into a fancy little yacht is in Tiits Old Boat. Author Don Casey assumes you know nothin -not even how to use tools and leads you methodically and good-naturedly through every step of turning a cast-off fiberglass boat into a real show-stopper, including the simplest and most complete explanation yet of sailmaking-the sailor's darkest and most expensive art. Casey's step-by-step drawings guide you through a simple project, then show you how to apply those same skills to more ambitious boat projects. With this book and the best buyer's market in boating history, you can sail to Tahiti with money to spare. Hardbound, 474 pp., 250 illus., 7-1 /2 x 9-1 /2. w60233H. $34.95.



Pride of Baltimore

The Story of the Baltimore Clippers

Thomas C. Gillmer

The beautiful and rakish Baltimore clippers had an influence on American history and naval architecture far out of proportion to their brief lifespan. During the War of 1812, their superior speed and weatherliness enabled privateersmen to destroy heavily escorted British convoys. One audacious American commander even went so far as to nail a notice to the door of Lloyd's of London declaring the British Isles under siege! The losses suffered by the British commerce were catastrophic. Far more than the highly publicized battles between British and American frigates like the Java and the Constitution, the depredations of the Baltimore clippers helped bring the War of 1812 to a close.

This book tells the whole story of the Baltimore clippers -- from their birth on Maryland's Eastern Shore through their fall from grace to their rebirth in the 1970s along the shores of Baltimore's renovated waterfront, including the true account of the tragic loss of the relica schooner Pride of Baltimore, and the building of her new, larger sistership, Pride of Baltimore II. Thomas C. Gillmer is uniquely qualified to tell the story of these fascinating vessels. He is Curator of the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, author of the U.S. Navy's textbooks on ship design, designer of both Prides of Baltimore, and chosen by the Navy to restore the USS Constitution to sailing trim for her 200th birthday.

Profusely illustrated with rare photographs and drawings, some published here for the first time, Pride of Baltimore is both original scholorship and stirring maritime history. Hardbound, 240 pages, 200 illustrations, 7-3/8" x 9-1/4".


Regular Retail Price: $24.95.

Pre-Publication Discount Price

(through 2/29/92): $22.45.

Available early March.

Excerpts from Pride of Baltimore

The average speed of sailing ships changed little in nearly half a millennium. Medieval cogs of the Hanseatic League, the ships of Columbus, Magellan, or James Cook -- all averaged, under good sailing weather, only six-and-one-half or at best seven knots.

The Chesapeake builders introduced state-of-the-art top-sail schooners and brigs of up to 200 tons, with astonishingly better sailing performance -- performance encompassing not only raw speed through the water, but an ability to sail closer to the wind. A Baltimore Clipper could accelerate rapidly, and easily reach and cruise at speeds up to 11 and 12 knots.



One Seawind II owner I didn't see on your listing is H. Lee Brooks. I met Lee and his wife cruising aboard their Seawind (B'rer Rabbit, perhaps?) in the Bahamas a couple of years ago. The last address I have for him is: P.O. Box 699, Bookeelia, FL 33922 (813/283-7320). Lee is a professional boatbuilder, having built many commercial boats in Florida. He has also managed his own boat repair service. He is a great professional resource for the association, and I'd recommend that you try to get him aboard!

I'm enclosing a copy of a flyer I had done up when I had SOLUTION on the market. It's really aimed at someone who has little or no knowledge of a Seawind II, but it may be worthwhile for your archives at any rate. It generated a lot of interest in the boat which was eventually sold by a broker here in Fort Lauderdale. I'm prejudiced, but I feel that SOLUTION was one very sweet boat! (ANNEX IIIB, attached)

I particularly enjoyed the letter in your newsletter from my friend Dr. Dick Weaver, who has probably cruised as many miles as anyone alive in a Seawind II. He has customized his boat for his needs and he's always working to make it better -- something I really appreciate in a boat owner.

A few comments based on specific points in Dick's letter:

-- I had a good many hours on my Westerbeke 30 engine (I forget how many now) but never lost an oil cooler. Perhaps one reason was that (following good advice from a good mechanic) we replaced the oil cooler before we began serious cruising, keeping the old one as a spare. We also did the same with the raw water pump, starter, starter solenoid, alternator and heat exchanger. One advantage to this approach: you KNOW you have the right parts before you leave and you're starting with new stuff. You also know the old parts you removed will fit your engine if you have to change back! Except for occasional overheating, we had very little in the way of problems with our Westerbeke 30. It proved a good, reliable engine which was simple enough for me to maintain and, occasionally, repair myself.

-- Dick's right: our exhaust outlet was a little higher than his. We moved it up on the transom because the very low location always resulted in trapping diesel exhaust giving us a perpetually dirty transom. We got water up the exhaust only twice, both times going downwind in heavy winds and seas without the engine running. When water backs up into the cylinders, it can cause a lot of damage if it's not discovered soon. (A friend had to completely overhaul his engine when this happened right before he left on a two week trip. When he got back, the pistons were rusted in place in the block!)

-- How do you know when you have water in the cylinders? A diesel mechanic told me it would sound like someone hit the engine very hard with a sledge hammer when you try to start the engine and there's water in the cylinders. He's right! A VERY LARGE sledge hammer wielded by a giant! What happens, of course, is that the pistons slam up and try to compress the water. Being basically uncompressable, the water stops the pistons short with a loud and sudden CLANNNGGG! My comment upon hearing that the first time was "Jesus, that sounds expensive!" Turns out all I had to do was back of f on each of the injectors and blow the water out the injector ports by turning the engine with the starter. It makes a hell of a mess out of the starboard side of the engine room. (Try using a plastic drop cloth.) Then check the oil -- if there's any evidence of water in the oil (opague grey color to the oil instead of shiny black), change the oil, run the engine for awhile, and check for water again. If there's no water, run the engine for five or so hours, then change the oil once more. If your boat is prone to a problem like this, it makes good sense to start and run the engine at anchor or at the slip for awhile after you've had a downwind sail in heavy air or seas. That way when you leave the boat for the night you'll know that there's no water in your cylinders. Sleep soundly!

-- I'll beg to differ with Dick on the safety of propane. We cruised for most our 12 years of ownership with a propane stove and oven made by Shipmate and, to my knowledge, never, ever had even a hint of a problem. Our 20-pound propane tank was installed in the cockpit beneath a cover that made a nice table. We added a drain in the cockpit that emptied above the waterline so any possible propane leak (which we never had) would drain over the side. We used an off-the-shelf 12-volt Marinetics brand LP solenoid control valve to open and close the gas supply at the tank, with the switch placed near the main companionway ladder; its red light glowed as a reminder anytime the valve was open. Our installation was in accordance with ABYC standards, and it provided safe, economical and efficient cooking for us for many years. In a Seawind II, I'd go the same way again without guestion! Kerosene and alcohol? You have to be a glutton for punishment to use them these days!

--Something else Judy and I really liked aboard SOLUTION was our 12-volt Nilsson anchor windlass. It was expensive and a real bear to install (especially running the heavy cabling up to the chain locker and working half in the chain locker), but the convenience of being able to easily drop and retrieve our 45-pound CQR or 44-pound Bruce (with all-chain rode) made it all worthwhile. We found that we were much guicker to pull up our anchor and re-anchor in a questionable situation with the windlass there to do the work for us. It was so easy that on the

way down the ICW, we'd often drop the anchor for 15 or 20 minutes while waiting for a bridge to open. The anchor windlass may just have been the best labor saving device we ever added -- after the Hood Seafurl furling gear.

Global Positioning System (GPS). I have cruised a fair number of miles around the Bahamas, the Caribbean basin, Bermuda, the Chesapeake, the Atlantic coast and the Gulf coast with Loran and SatNav as shipmates, and SOLUTION had both when I sold her to Allan Landsman two years ago. Compared to the old fashioned way (sextant, tables, clock and compass), they're wonderful. Since selling SOLUTION, I've cruised a couple of thousand miles with GPS, and I'll say this without much fear of being corrected: once you've used GPS you'll never want to go back to Loran or SatNav! GPS is accurate to within 60 feet, provides 24-hour-a-day coverage in ALL weather, provides full coverage anywhere on earth, and provides more accurate speed over the around in formation than your knotmeter and more accurate course over the around information than your compass. (In fact, when I was cruising the Great Barrier Reef this summer aboard a 70-foot trawler with a wonderfully accurate gyro compass and knotmeter, we still relied on GPS for course and speed because it provided better course and speed information!)

Anyone considering a better Loran today would do well to at least look at GPS. There are more expensive units, but in terms of accuracy and user friendliness none is better than the Magellan. At Bluewater Books & Charts we sell the new five-channel Magellan 5000, a self contained, waterproof and portable unit (which actually floats if you drop it over the side), for $1,450 -- no more than a top quality Loran such as a Trimble or Northstar. If you want to include this in the newsletter, telephone me before you go to press -- the price may be even lower!]

The Magellan runs ten hours on a set of six AA Alkaline batteries and generally will obtain a first fix within a minute of being turned on. In its battery saver mode, it turns itself off two minutes after obtaining a fix. You can turn it on at your leisure to recall the time and position of the last fix -- or for a new fix, if you wish. Of course, with optional equipment it can be hard-wired into your 12-volt system if you want it to run continually. Anyone who wants additional information can call me at 1-800-942-2583 and I'll answer hands-on questions or send out a flyer on the Magellan 5000. I use the Magellan 5000 on my own boat and I give it my personal recommendation!

One final thought: many Seawind II owners have probably bought their boats with the idea of distant cruising. If so, there a non-profit organization known as Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) that's been around for nearly 40 years. It's main purpose it to promote leaving a clean wake and to share cruising information. They publish a monthly "Commodore's Bulletin" which provides good cruising information to help the true cruiser and inspire the armchair cruiser. They also publish an occasional eguipment survey, with statistical and other information from their 3,000+ members on which eguipment for cruising sailboats works and which doesn't. They also sponsor an insurance program for cruising sailors that many members have told me saves them hundreds of dollars a year while providing insurance for areas most insurance companies won't even consider. SSCA dues are $22.00 a year, and back bulletins are available. I've been a member for at least a dozen years and have gained immeasurably from my association with other members, many of whom have circumnavigated (some several times). This is a truly non-commercial organization for cruisers (and wannabees) by cruisers, and it offers lots of camaraderie for cruisers. For more information, write to: SSC 521 S. Andrews Ave., Suite 10, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301.

Now, that's enough for one letter. No doubt you'll be getting many more from other SW II owners, present and past.

All best wishes,


S O L U T I O N : Allied Seawind II Ketch #88

A Proven Bluewater Cruising Yacht

by Bill Robertson

f you're looking towards the purchase of a proven bluewater cruising yacht to carry you to distant shores, the Allied Seawind II Solution could be just your ticket.

A tough and capable 32-foot ketch, Solution is outfitted with the finest gear for serious cruising and has been maintained with loving care. She caraies all the gear necessary to cruIse to virtually any port in the world, the kind of gear usually found only on larger, more expensive yachts.

Solution was bullt in 1978 as hull number 88 of the Seawind II design by the Wright-Allied Yacht Company in Catskill, New York, and delivered in June 1978 to Milt and Judy Baker. Since taking delivery in Annapolis that year,. the Bakers have cruIsed the yacht more than 20,000 miles.

"We've been sailing since we were kids, and we were looking for a solid cruising boat that could be easily handled offshore by a middle-aged couple," Milt Baker told me as we relaxed aboard Solution in the Bahamas. "As soon as we saw the Seawind II, we knew we'd found just what we were looking for."

When Commander Milt Baker retired from the U.S. Navy in 1983, he and Judy began cruising full time. Over the next few years, they sailed Solution from Florida to New England, then offshore to the Caribbean, and down the island chain to Grenada.

From the Caribbean, they sailed her to Bermuda, then back to the Chesapeake Bay for a summer. In the fall, they joined the annual yacht migration south, cruising down the Intracoastal Waterway to Florida, then to the Bahama Islands where they spent the winter. Since that time, Solution has returned to the Bahamas and cruised the Florida Keys extensively.

The Bakers enjoyed the cruising lifestyle so much they decided to open a "retiremen? business where they could draw upon their cruising experience. In 1986 they opened Bluewater Books & Charts in Fort lauderdale, and its now one of the most successfiil nautical bookstores and chart agencies in the United States.

But Bluewater Books & Charts is a demanding business, and the Bakers no longer have the time to cruise Solution to distant ports.

The person who buys Solution will be be getting a solid cruising yacht that can carry him safely and comfortably most anywhere in the world. He'll be getting a yacht that has had the very finest equipment intelligently selected and professionally installed, a yacht with systerns that have been fine-tuned and have worked reliably over thou-sands ofmiles, and a yacht that is truly ready for extended cruising. In short, he'll be getting a well-maintained cruising yacht with a proven track record.



The Seawind II is a cruising yacht designed and built with but one goal: to carry her crew safely, comfortably and quickly to distant ports of call.

In the early 1960s, the original Allied Seawind--a 30-footer--was the first fiberglass yacht to circumnavigate the earth. And since then other Seawind skippers have circled the globe as well.

The Seawind II, at 32 feet, is a logical extension of the original Seawind design by distinguished naval architect Thomas Gilimer. In developing the Seawind II, Gillmer drew upon the invaluable back-ground provided by the thousands of successtul oceangoing Seawind miles, in combination with his own vast experience as a designer, sailor and Seawind owner.

With her long keel and medium displacement, the Seawind II provides maximum directional stability and superior performance. She is a fast boat, even in light airs, stable, and surprisingly stiff.


Why a Ketch?

The ketch has been the choice of experienced cruising sailors for generations. Ever since the sturdy Tahiti ketch made her official debut in 1935, cruising sailors have specified ketches for four key reasons:

-- A ketch breaks sail area up into smaller, more easily handled packages. This means a ketch can be handled by a smaller crew.

-- A ketch provides more spars to hang sails on, and this dramatically improves reaching in light air.

--.with her low center of gravity and balanced sailplan, a ketch is the most comfortable and fastest of rigs on a reach.

--In heavy weather, a ketch heaves-to wondefully with a backed forestaysail and a reefed mirren. Just ask Milt and Judy about the time they laid hove-to for 26 hours in a North Atlantic storm while they were enroute to the Virgin Islands.

In practice, the Bakers have found Solution a very easy boat to handle. She makes swiiit offshore passages with a minimum of fuss.

Light air or heavy, Solution's offshore average is consistently above 100 miles perday, and 125-mile days are common. Milt reports that her best 24-hour day to date was 166 miles reaching south in the Caribbean tradewinds--a 24-hour average of close to seven knots!


Handmade by American craftsmen on the shores of the Hudson River, the Seawind Ii's standard features include solid, hand laid fiberglass construction with end-grain balsa cored deck and cabin top, all fittings through deckbolted with solid backing plates arid stainless steel washers, seacocks on all thru-hulls beneath the waterline, heavy duty rack-and-pinion steering, extra heavy duty extruded aluminum rub rail, and much more.

Overbuilt is the keyword for the Allied Seawind II. From the top of her oversizcd spars and rigging to the 32-pound bronze heel casting on the afrer end of the keel, you'll find everyting about the the Seawind II to be overbuilt.

And there are literally dozens of other features you'll like: cast lead internal ballast, f6ur-inch toerails, rugged rack and pinion steering, and Gilimer's long keel with attached rudder and protected propeller.



The yacht's accomodation and layout are simple and flinctional.

Aboard Solution the original dark Formica bulkheads have been refinished in offwhite with solid teak trim, and the effect is c'uite traditional. In fact, at first glance you'd swear you were in the salon of an elegant old wooden yacht.

Entering the main cabin, you find an L-shaped galley to port. The galley provides a deep sink served by hot and cold pressure water, purified water from a Seagull purifier, foot pumps for both fresh water and salt water, and a built-in dispenser for dish washing detergent.

Solunon's stainless steel Ship-mate stove has a three-burner propane range and a large oven. The stove has searails and pot-locks, and its gimballed, with a specially. installed 25-pound lead weight affixed to the bottom to dampen movement in heavy seas.

The top-loading ice box is six cubic feet, including a 1.5 cubic foot freezer, and extra closed cell polyurethane has been added for an average of 3.5 inches of insulation on all sides.

To starboard is the navigation station. The oversitted chart table is 36 x 39 inches and is home for the satellite navigation unit, Loran-C receiver, VHF radio, single side-band/ham radio receiver, and depth sounder. Adjacent to the chart table is the Signet Knotlog, showing both trip miles and total miles, and the master electrical panel for both the 12 volt system and the 110 volt system. The navigation station has both white lighting for inport use and red lighting for use underway. A Danforth Corsair compass is within easy view of the navigation station.

The main salon has a single settee berth to port and one to starboard, and custom teak dining table (with two leaves and concealed liquor storage) between. On the starboard main bu[khead is a large custom teak bookcase.

For entertainment, you'll find a color TV with omnidirectional masthead antenna, VCR with remote control, and AM-FM-cassette player stereo in the main salon.

Ventilation in the main cabin is from a large Lcxan opening hatch overhead plus a Dorade ventillator, two exhaust ventillators, and an opening port.

Forward of the main salon on the starboard side is the head compartment. In addition to the Raritan PH marine toilet, the head compartment contains a hot and cold pressure water shower and a sump with electric pump to clear away shower water. Because of its size and design, the head is easily cleaned alter showers. Forward of the head compartment is a lavatory.

Solution's comfortable V-berth is larger than those I've seen aboard many 50-footers. This is mainly because the Seawind II carries her beam so far forward, and it results in a V-berth that is six and one-half

feet wide at its head and over six feet long -. remarkable for a 32-footer..

The V-berth area can be closed off for privacy, offering a lavatory and mirror, space for dressing and private access to the head compartment. The area is cooled by a large overhead hatch, a removable cowl vent, and two opening ports.



For a 32-foot boat, Solunon's stowage capacity is truly remarkable. She has the capacity to carry all the gear, supplies, food, water and l necessary to be self sufficient for weeks on a long passage or in a secluded anchorage.

Solution carries a total of 106 gallons of water: 60 in her main tank above the keel, 40 in her starboard tank, and six in her stainless steel hot water heater. Water tanks are stainless steel.

The yacht's fuel capacity is 40 gallons, giving her a range under power in excess of 400 miles.

The Bakers believe that outside gear should be stowed outside, and Solution's two large cockpit lockers provide storage for all the gear you don't want inside: sails, lines, spare anchors, life jackets, fenders, dinghy accessories, snorkeling and dive gear, fishing gear, and the like.

Ample galIey stowage for dishes, cutlery, cooking utensils, and condiments is above the sink and above and outboard of the stove. In addition, there is stowage for large pots and pansin a special compartment outboard of the stove. The area beneath the stove offers storage for small tools..

Solution has a total of 11 drawers, eight of which are in the custom teak cabinet outboard of the starboard settee. The yacht's teak bookcase has nine running feet of shelves, and there is more than six and one-half feet of additional bookshelf space for paperback books. In addition, Solution has large lockers beneath both the port and starboard settees and clothing lockers with shelves outboard of the port settee.

Solunon's head compartment has an opening locker with stowage beneath the air conditioner evaporator unit, and there is additional stowage behind the sliding doors above and outboard of the forward sink. Opposite the head,lun'on has a large hanging locker with outboard shelves.

There is additional stowage beneath the V-berth, hill-length shelves and custom fill length lockers above the V-berth, and a custom cabinet for charts above the V-berth. Forward of the V-berth is a chain locker for the yacht's two anchor rodes.

"The amount of stowage this boat has," Judy Baker says, "is just unbelievable!"

Sailing Gear

As a cutter-rigged ketch, So has her sails broken into easily-handled packages.

The cornerstone of her sailing gear is Hood Seafurl roller furling, a system Milt says has performed flawlessly over thousands of miles. With this system, the anodized aluminum headsail foil is permanently in place over a strong stainless steel headstay, and it rotates around the headstay. The system incorporates an upper bearing and a lower bearing for almost effortless flirling. &aion carries a 135% genoa as her roller rling headsail, a sail the Bakers have found so usefull they have two: a heavy one for stronger winter winds in the Caribbean and Bahamas and a lighter one for light summer winds.

Because changing a large roller flirling headsail in a raal blow can be a raal problem, Milt commissioned designer Tom GilImer to design a special forestaysail package for Sotion. Gilliners design makes heavy weath,er sail-handling a breeze.

The idea is to use the forestaysail in heavy weather, leaving the genoa completely flirled, with no need to wrestle it down and remove it. Gillmer's simple but elegant design is based on a removable inner forestay and an ingenious &haeffer cam fitting which makes the stay quickly and easily removable.

In normal weather, the inner forestay is led to the rail outboard of the mast, but in heavy weather it can be snapped into place in its fiting on the foredeck and tensioned in second. Getting the forestaysail is quick and easy, even in heavy weather.

The Hood forestaysail functions well in winds above 20-knots and, using the reef points, as a storm jib in winds above 3 knots.

The inner forestay on the forward side of the mast is oppoeed by a pair of permanent intermediate shrouds on the after side, stiliening Soafl's rig. Her optional twin backstays and triatic stay stiffen the rig even more, making it rock solid.

Solution's oversize Metalmast Marine spars are hard anodizd, and both her main and mizzene are rigged for jiffy reefing. The mainsail has two sets of reefpoints, and the mizzen one, and, like all the yachts working sails, they are made by Hood and triple stitchect to prevent damage fiom chafin the main also has anti-chafing patches on both sides where it meets the shrouds.

Primary winches are Lewmar 40s. Halyard winches are Lewmar 8's: one each for main, genoa and forestaysail or spinnaker also carries a mien staysail for light air downwind work and a Flasher-type cruising spinnaker in a spinnaker snuffer, which makes setting and dousing the spinnaker an easy job for one.

The whisker pole is permanently mounted on a track on the mast according to a design by world cruising sailor 'Any Pardy. This makes setting and unsetting the pole safe, quick and easy.

The net result ofall this is that Solution is a very easy boat to sail shorthanded. With a sail- plan that is conservatively designed and intelligently laid out, she's easily handled by two under virtually all conditions.

Navigation Equipment

As a career Navy officer with many years at sea, Milt Baker is something of a stickler about navigation. As a result, he chose Solution's navigation gear carefully with three criteria in mind: reliability, user friendliness, and low power consumption.

His choice for a satellite navigator was the Magnavox 4102. Magnavox has built more than 60 percent of the world's satellite navigation units, and they have built more 4102's than any other set. The Magnavox 4102 uses the Transit navigation satellites, a system the government expects to retain in use through at least the mid- 1990's. In Solution's normal cruising waters, the 4102 provides a fix about every 70 to 90 minutes, on the average, with capable dead reckoning between fixes.

Milt selected the Micrologic 8000 as Sotion's ran-C receiver. Ti:ss unit is compact, draws virtually no power, is very,user friendly, has capacity for 250 way-points (including a name for each) and is completely waterproof Moreover, it is an especially sensitive unit which provides good navigation accuracy even in fringe reception areas like the Bahamas.

The Datamarine International Offshore 3000 depth sounder mounted at Solution's navigation station reads depths to 999 feet, and it can be set to sound its alarm at any of 24 preset depths. When making a landfall a&er an ocean passage, this instrument is particularly usefill as a warning the vessel is coming 'con soundings." Solution has a cockpit remote display from this depth sounder.

Speed and-distance are particularly important in navigation, of course, and Solution has a ain pair of Signet instruments to keep track of both. Her knotmeter is an analog display Signet Mk-9, which is mounted in the cockpit and shows speeds from 0 to 12 knots. Just inside the main companionway, visible from both the navigation station and the cockpit, is a Signet Mk-78 flualog, which shows total miles and (resettable) trip miles.

Solution's navigation station also contains a Standard Horizon 78 VHF radio (25 watts, 78 charnaels, masthead antenna) and an Icom R-70 ham radio/single sideband receiver (insulated backstay antenna). The VHF, of course, is useflil for close-in information, and the Icom is especially usefl for SSB marine weather broadcasts and warnings and for monitoring the ham radio cniising nets, such as the Waterway Net and the Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net.


Solution's engine is a reliable 25 horsepower Westerbeke 30 diesel, a smooth four cylinder engine that is fresh water cooled. Milt demon. strated for me that Westerbeke starts quickly and runs smoothly. Lube oil has been changed regularly every 100 hours since the engine was new.

The slow-turning Westerbeke is a very economical engine, burning less than a half gallon an hour while moving the boat at 5.5 knots in smooth water. That gives Solution a range in excess of 400 miles under power alone.

The Westerbeke will push Solution along at faster speeds as well. Under power along, the yacht will do approximately 6.5 knots, burning about seven-tenths of a gallon per hour.

Although it looks almost like new, the engine has approximately 2,800 hours on it. As most sailors know, the care an engine has had is much more important than the hours on it; Pve seen engines like this with proper care go over 10,000 hours before overhaul.

Diesel fuel is filtered by the highly rated Raycor SOOF filter, which has an optional water sensor; if water is detected, a yellow light on the yacht's master electrical panel flashes on giving plenty of warning before damage is done or the engine is shut down.

Access to the engine is aft in the main salon and through cockpit lockers on either side. An automatic Fireboy halon extinguisher is located in the engine room and, in thc event of fire there, will set itself off and displace all oxygen in the compartment with halon, staving the fire and extinguishing it almost instandy.

There is a complete inventory of engine spares including: starter, starter solenoid, heat exchanger, oil cooler, complete seawater pump, seawater pump impellers and other spare parts, high pressure fliel lines, injectors, glow plugs, voltage regulator, thermostat and gaskets, and much more.

Additional spares include: bronze propeller, pumps and pump repair kits, head parts, light bulbs, and more.

Solution's two batteries are reliable 140 ampere hour Surrette deep cycle batteries, for an ample capacity of 280 ampere hours. The batteries are located high in the forward end of the cockpit lockers, well away from any bilgewater. The batteries are equipped with Hydrocaps and normally require water only a few times a year.

Batteries are charged by a Motorola 55-amp alternator which is controlled by an automatic voltage regulator or, at the flick of a switch, by a manual rheostat control for sustained charging at a high rate. On shorepower, the batteries are charged by a 20 amp marine converter.

State of charge and battery condition are monitored by two Danforth voltmeters and two arnmeters. Solunon also carries a 550 watt, 12 volt-to-110 volt TripLte inverter, which provides sufficient 110 volt power at anchor and underway to operate small took, hair driers, VCR's, computers, and the like.

The yacht has a true marine refrigeration installation with two in-dependent compressors and two in-dependent refrigerant systems. The six cubic foot box has three stainless steel cold plates (two for the refrigerator one for the freezer). With the flick of a switch, either 110 volt shore power or the main engine can be used to drive the system.

Milt reports that he and Judy have found that the engine-drive system will make all the ice they need, keep the freezer frozen solidly, and keep the refrigerator cold for months at a time away from shorepower.

Typically, they run the engine both morning and evening for refrigeration. In the winter in the Caribbean and Bahamas, 30 to 45 minutes per run is sufficient. In the summer, when air and water temperature are in the 90s, 60 minutes per run is usually reuired.

At the pier, the 110 volt compressor is extremely efficient at keeping the freezer frozen and the remainder of the system cold.

380 Solurion's marine air conditioning system is a 12,000-BTU Marine Air, installed in 1987, and I'll vouch for the fact that it keeps the boat comfortably cool even on sunny South Florida's 95-degree days. In winter, the unit can also be used for central heating in temperatures down to about 25 degrees.

Solution also has a cute but serious Tiny Tot cabin heater on the port main bullthead. This heater is propane fieled with an automatic valve to close off the flid supply if the flame blows out. The Tiny Tot is vented to the outside through a Charley Noble. Milt reports that this heater has kept Solution's cabin warm and comfortable in temperatures approaching zero.

Ground Tackle

If there's one thing a serious cruising yacht absolutely must have, it's a well-engineered and workable system for setting and retreiving her anchors.

Solution's oversized ground tackle is organaed into a cohesive system which makes setting and retreiving anchors a pleasure. So much so, in fact, Milt says the Bakers often anchor for as little as 10 minutes while awaiting a bridge opening along the Intracoastal Waterway.

At the heart ofthe system is a rugged 12-volt Nilssen anchor windlass with a manual backup.

The principal anchor is a CQR45 plow, an anchor a flill two sizes larger than the CQR 25-rated to hold the boat. The CQR-45 is on an all chain rode, with 200 feet of 5/1 6-inch high test chain. Using the electric windlass and the Seawind Ii's browsprit and stemhead anchor roller, this anchor is easily set and retreived in virtually any conditions -- with no huffing and puffing. Once the anchor is set, a nylon snubber line leading to a chainplate at the waterline is set, taking all strain off the anchor windlass, providing a flexible link to the chain, and increasing the scope.

Solution also carries a CQR35 on the port side of her bowsprit. This anchor has 25 feet of 5/16-inch high test chain and a 150-foot 5/8-inch three-stiand nylon rode. The anchor windlass can also be used to retreive this anchor.

On her cabin top, Solution carries her storm anchor: a hefty 50-pound yachtsman stowed in chocks. The Bakers' intention has been to use the big yachtsman in tandem with the CQR-45 in the ultimate blow, but Milt says they've never found that necessary. Normal ground tackle has held the yacht with no special measures in sustained winds over 60 knots.

Cockpit and On Deck

As I visited aboard Solution, Judy pointed out that the cockpit is nine feet long, with cornfortable seating for up to a dozcn people at happy hour. The custom teak Edion wheel is near the after end of the cockpit, with a raised helms-man's seat providing excellent visibility on all points of sail. The Autohelm 3000 autopilot drives the wheel by way of a belt, and the waterproof control unit for the autopilot is located in the starboard cockpit locker to keep it extra dry (though it may be temporarily mounted in the cockpit). Primary winches and mizzen sheet are within reach of the helm and the mainsheet is about two steps away, making Solution very easy to sail shorthanded.

In the center of the cockpit is a table containing the main Danforth Constellation compass and completely enclosing the 20-pound aluminum propane tank. One disadvantage of a large cockpit like the Seawind II's is that if the boat is pooped by a large wave from astern, the cockpit can fill with a great deal of water and upset the boat's trim. Solution's cockpit table-propane tank cover reduces the volume of water that can fill the cockpit by about one-third.

The cockpit has all-around combings to keep water out, a bridge deck to keep water from from going below, and there are two 1.5-inch drains to empty the cockpit quickly.

The cockpit is protected from rain and spray by a custom lull-width dodger and lull weather-cloths (showing the boat's name in 18-inch letters) and from sun, rain and spray by a custom lull-width bimini top. The custom stainless steel swim ladder folds up and down on the transom with one movement and is easily accessible from the cockpit. As a safety measure, it can also be pulled down from the water.

From the helmsman's seat, the following gauges and instruments are visible: analog knotmeter, depth sounder repeater, tachometer, engine temperature, oil pressure, and voltmeter.

Some of the Little Extras

Even brief look at Solution shows that this yacht has been continually upgraded and maintained. You get an idea how much Milt and Judy Baker have cared for Solution when you look at the kind of little things they've done to the boat. Space doesn't allow a complete listing, but try these on for size:

* Nicely varnished teak. Solution's exterior teak has always been finished bright.

* Custom made Sunbrella covers to protect all exterior teak: caprails, cockpit combings, grab rails, windlass pad, wheel, cockpit table, washboards. That means the teak generally needs revarnishing only once a year, even in Florida.

* Good seacocks. Most of the original bronze seacocks have been replaced with high tech Marelon seacocks which never need service or lubrication and which open without effort.

* A lightening ground system designed and installed to send a lightening strike harmlessly into the sea.

* Screens for all opening ports and hatches.

* A plexiglass slide-in door for the main companion way to keep cool air inside in hot weather and warm air inside in cool weather and also allow plenty of light below.

* A main companionway hatch which can be locked in the closed position from inside the boat for security.

* Sailcovers and awnings replaced in 1988.

* A barograph neatly mounted on its own custom made shelf above the chart table.

* A very complete set of manuals for the yacht, engine, equipment, and accessories organizcd in four large looseleaf binders.

* A loud alarm for low oil pressure, overheating, or high bilge water.

* A stainless steel tank for kerosene.

* A varnished wicker light to hang over the cockpit table for late happy hours or dining al fresco.

* Main steering compass compensated with zero degrees deviation on most headings and no more than 2 degrees on any heading.

* Newly upholstered cushions (with matching custom curtains) in the mail salon.

* A fan at the foot of the V-berth. And one in the gally too.

* A digital alarm clock over the V-berth.

* Custom shelves and partitions in many of the lockers

* Strong rig. An exceptionally strong rig, in fact, with twin backstays (in place of a single), twin intermediates (in place of none) and a removable inner forestay (in place of none), and running backstays for the mizzen (in place of none). The result is an almost bulletproof rig that has survived offshore winds in excess of 50 knots.

* Documentation. The yacht is documented by the U.S. Coast Guard, meaning there is no question as to chain of ownership and there will be no hassles for a new owner who wants the yacht documented.

The Bottom Line

If I didn't already have a an offshore cruising boat, I'd want to seriously consider Solution. And if you're seriously in the market for a bluewater cruising yacht under 40 feet, Solution is definitely one to take a look at. Do so and you'll see lots more special features that I've not even mentioned here. Milt and Judy Baker tell me they will be pleased to show their boat to you. And to answer your questions about Solution -- and about cruising in her.

As I write this, Solution lies in her berth on Key Biscayne... awaiting a new owner. And new adventures.

If you're the fortunate one who gets her, you can head her south and west through the Florida Keys. Or across the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas. You can tell that she almost knows thc way!

Leave her in Florida for the rest of the winter, and come back and enjoy her there. Then take her home in the spring. Or take her around the world.

If you'd like to see Solution, call Milt Baker at 305/763-6833 for an appointment.

But don't think about it for too long. A boat like Solution will not be on the market for long!


Allied Seawind II Ketch #88

Model: Allied Seawind II

Designed by: Thomas Gilimer

Built by: Wright-Mied Yacht Co.

Where Built: Catskill, New York

Year Built: 1978
LOA: 38'4"
LOD: 31'7"
Beam: 10'5"
Draft: 4'6"
Sail area: 555 sq. ft.
Headroom: 6'2"
Bridge Clearance: 44'6"

Displacement: 15,000 lbs.

Ballast: 5,980 lbs.

Engine: Westerbeke 30 diesel, FWC

Transmission: Hurth short profile

Reduction: 2:1

}li2180 Rig: Ketch (cutter rigged)

Hull Color: White

Deck Color: White with beige nonskid

Spars: Anodized aluminum

Rigging: 1 x 19 stainless steel

Sails: 7 (mostly Hood)

Water: 106 gallons

Fuel: 40 gallons

Fuel consuption: .45 GPH at 5.5 knots

Principal Equipment and Options

Hood Seafurl roller furling system

Awlgripped hull

Marine Air reverse cycle air conditioner

Engine drive cold plate refrigeration

110 volt cold plate refrigeration

Nilssen V0700 electric anchor windlass

CQR 35 and 45 anchors

All-chain anchor rode

Automatic Halon fire extinguisher

Magnavox 4102 satnav

Micrologic 8000 Loran-C receiver

Surrette batteries (280 amp hours total)

Datamarine 999-foot depth sounder

Icom R70 ham/SSB receiver, antenna

Autohelm 3000 autopilot

Dodger, bimini, awnings, varnish covers

Custom teak dining table and bookcase

Custom teak cabinet with eight drawers

Color television set, VCR

Complete inventory of engine spares

Cabin heater

Stainless propane stove with oven

Custom curtains/matching upholstry

Interior just repainted


Further information: 1481 SE 17th St., Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33316. (305) 763-6833. Fax. (305) 522-2278.



I apologize for taking so long to respond. My excuse is that I have little of any interest to report. Therefore, by way of introduction, I should tell you a little about us.

Eleanor and I live in a small community on the south shore of the Magothy River, just north of Annapolis. We raced dinghies for several years, finally giving it up after all the kids grew up. They were beating us badly anyway. Our first venture into "big" boats (1985) was a Catalina 27. We moved up to "Dutch Treat" (former "Whisper") two years later.

This was quite by accident. One snow filled winter afternoon in 1987, we were having lunch in a restaurant overlooking Deep Creek (just off the Magothy). We found ourselves admiring a snow filled ketch in a slip next to the restaurant. A couple of months later while boat shopping for a solid ocean capable cutter (without success), the broker asked if we would like to look at a ketch. We said yes, made an appointment, and met him in the parking lot of the same restaurant. We bought Dutch Treat that afternoon.

The back issues of SEAWIND WORDS are great. I have been after a nagging leak into the port side lockers for the past two years. I have caulked and re-caulked the chain plates several times. I have also removed and re-caulked the fixed ports. All without success. The hull/deck bond never occurred to me. When I haul this winter, I intend to remove the rub rail and see what can be done. If there are any good solutions to what appears to be a common flaw, I would like to hear about it.

I have made no notable modifications to Dutch Treat other than the addition of headsail furling. We chose Hood Seafurl and have used it for the past two years without complaint. As we get closer to retirement and the lure of the waterway, I am sure we shall make additional changes to increase habitability.

The enclosed is to help defray printing costs. If more is needed, please let me know. The information in these past newsletters is like gold and will surely free me from a lot of trial and error.

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 "...We have so far made only a few changes, but plan to make some more. The first thing I did was to open up the stand-pipes in the dorade boxes. There are two pipes in each box. I cut out the headliner below each pipe and filled the space with fiberglass filler between the headliner and the upper deck. I put teak trim rings with screens around each vent, and it looks very nice. This change doubled the air flow below and made an amazing difference. In this southern climate we need all the air we can get.

I put a Beckson 8" inspection plate in the sole of the head so that I could get at the bilge area that is just forward of the water tank. There is a lot of room there for storage. We carry water jugs there for long trips. With the right kind of jugs, the space accomodates about 8 to 10 gallons. While I was at it, I did away with the flimsy base that the head sat on. I fiberglassed plywood uprights onto the hull and put a small flat top on them before bolting the head onto the assembly. It is now quite solid At the same time, I re-f iberglassed the whole shower pan so that water would not leak into the bulkheads. I covered all of this with white gel coat and it made a very nice shower.

The stainless (laugh) steel water lift muffler was leaking around the welds at the neck, so I threw it out and made a heavy fiberglass one. My wife came home one day with a Kentucky Fried Chicken bucket which made a nice mold for the muffler.

The oil -cooler/heat-exchanger on my W-30 sprang a leak while on a trip to the Dry Tortugas, filling the engine crankcase with sea water. I bypassed it and drained out the water, putting in old oil that a fellow sailor and I had on hand. I flushed the engine, and then put in new oil. It now runs well, but uses about a quart of oil every 80 hours or so since then. Previous to that incident, there wasn't any oil consumption between changes.

The (Westerbeke) W-30 must be a tough engine, as mine has over-heated several times, run with the crankcase full of water, over-revved to 4000 rpm for a couple of minutes, and towed another sailing vessel about 150 nm in windless conditions. It has 2200 hours on it, and still does about 6 knots at 1800 rpm on 1/2 gallon per hour.

On that same trip to the Dry Tortugas, the reed valve in the fuel lift pump came loose in its seat and the pump wouldn't pump fuel. I could not do over 1400 rpm with speed of 4 to 4 1/2 knots since the injector pump was being fed by gravity only. It took a while to figure out what was wrong. I put a new paper gasket under the reed valve and peened it back down with a screwdriver and hammer. It is nice to know that the W-30 will run without the lift pump functioning, even if it is slow.

As for the oil cooler that they want nearly $300 for, I borrowed a friend's torch and in about six hours I put all new copper in the old one - - and so far, so good! I re-routed the sea water hose that runs from the pump to the cooler so that it goes under the engine crankcase. There, I installed a small seawater strainer that hangs directly under the engine. This catches any pieces of water pump impeller blades or other matter before it gets into the oil cooler.

The previous owner had installed a Chrysler 100 amp alternator with three batteries and two selector switches. The alternator works well, but the two switches and the maze of wires have to go.' I plan to install an isolator: One side will go to a start-only battery, and the other side to a selector switch for two house batteries. (I cut a hole so that I can get to the area beneath the batteries, and find that I can store 7 or 8 quarts of oil there.

I have done some re-plumbing and re-routing of hoses and wires to get more room and to clean things up. I took the forward lift bracket of f the top or the engine and, with the re-routing, I am now able to crawl into the engine compartment and get all around the engine.

We cut doors under the V-berths to match the one under the forward sink. This greatly improved the access to the through-hull valve and to the storage area under the bunks - - no need to lift cushions and whatever might be on them. In addition, I installed a shelf on the port side (the through-hull valve is on the starboard side).

The *@#$! 24-gallon plastic holding tank is forward under the V-berths. It has always been plumbed for fresh water; good thing, as it leaks.1 I haven't decided what to do about a holding tank yet. (Ed Note: See John Winters' write-up on his holding tank installation, in this edition of SW2W) I would like to have things legal, but to replace this one means tearing out the whole forward area. I berth my OSTINATO next door to Don Bundy's TALISMAN (Sw2 129K). Don had a fiberglass holding tank made which is heavy but which works alright. The forward bilge area under the head and amidships could be used also, but I don't know what would fit there or how to install tankage there and run the related hoses. I would like to hear from owners who have solved the problem. (Ed Note: Please, owners, give your editor a copy of the advice you send to Ken so that we can publish it in the next edition of SW2W.)

I changed the upper 1 1/2" bushing pillow block on the rudder shaft to a ball bearing type. The rudder shaft was being worn by the bushing and I didn't want it to get any worse. I placed the new bearing on top of the platform just under the rack gear. It works fine.

We had a hull/deck joint leak on the starboard side, starting just forward of the nav station. I cleaned the old sealant out all the way to the star board locker, and then filled the joint with Marine Tex epoxy. It hasn't -leaked yeti The port chain locker hawse pipe leaked, also. Water would run under the flange down onto the headliner and drip into the top locker behind the port settee. I routed out the balsa core about 1/4" back and filled it with Marine Tex. Then I put 5200 under the hawse pipe flanges: No leaks

On the port side, aft of the ice box, is an Allcraft 5-gallon hot water heater that works very well on either engine heat or 110v shore power. It heats up fast and stays hot for up to 18-20 hours, depending on usage. Outboard of this is a Sail Kool frig that works well if I keep the batteries up.

Under the helmsman's seat is the best piece of equipment on the boat - -I call it "Ben". It is a Ben-Mar chain-driven auto pilot. It's very much out of the way, doesn't use much electricity - - works when the batteries are low. The control hangs on the forward bulkhead of the wet locker. In bad weather, the helmsman can steer from inside or while sitting in the companionway.

Next to Ben is the propane locker, containing a 10 lb. bottle. I also store a few of the disposable propane containers in this locker. This runs our Galley Maid 3-burner stove with oven & broiler as well as our Force 10 BBQ that mounts on the rail just aft of the propane locker. I don't know about other countries or sections of the U.S., but around here propane is the only way to go. It is hot, quick, clean, no fuss, no mess. and I believe quite safe if you maintain the system and keep your smeller on the alert

The dodger is free standing, meaning that the fabric does not hold the frame up. It has two bows supported by four vertical posts. The cloth can be zipped off and the frame put down in a few minutes. I wanted it strong to support me or the boom if needed.

The bimini starts just aft of the mizzen mast and goes to the stern. It has three loops, the main one is on track slides. It can be lowered onto the combing but very seldom is. It is just below the mizzen boom and gives good shade. We could not do without it here in Florida. The only problem is furling the sail and that is really slight when you learn how. You have to go out board of the pushpit to properly flake the sail, but we don't do this under sail anyway. A line or two around it while standing on the cockpit locker is all you need, in fact several times we have just dropped it on top of the bimini and just let it lay there.

Two inch thick floatation foam cushions cover the entire cockpit, and are very comfortable. I put a screw type snap shackle on the bottom block of the main sheet which makes it very easy to take off and store out of the way, on top of the dodger works good. One of the reasons we bought the Seawind was for her great, comfortable cockpit. In an area like Florida you use it a lot. We have a very active sailing club and when it comes time to trash "OSTINATO" we may have 10 to 12 people or more on board. This is when I move the main sheet, put the steering wheel in a locker, put all the cushions out, use the Force 10 BBQ, and have a great time in paradise.

"OSTINATO" had an epoxy bottom job in 1988, when I bought her the first of this year there were no blisters. She has Micron 33 on her, works very good, I will have to do something in a year or so.

I'm a little short on canvas, 150% and 100% head sails, main with two reefs, mizzen with none, and a cruising spinnaker. The 150% is a mylar by Dolye on a Famet Easy Furl. It is cut high so it doesn't catch water, clears the bow pulpit, and is easy to see under. It has a foam luff and will shape good all the way furled. The Famet is very good, easy to turn and simple even if it is a little big and heavy. I have never even taken the time to pull the 100% working jib out of the bag so don't know how it will sail. Just looking at it in the bag the clothe looks good. The cruising spinnaker (flasher by Ulmer) is in a sock and works well, and is very colorful. All of the sails work well and the boat is well balanced, and of course can be trimmed to manage her on helm.

I know my boat and Bundy's "TALISMAN" sail fairly well to weather. No racer mind you but she will beat 45 degrees either side of true wind. On one occasion with another skipper on board we tacked through 85 degrees three times, it depends on the seas, wind and current. Naturally she's best on a close reach. More than anything I think tuned rigging and a good head sail make the difference.

A Delta 35# sits on the roller, hooked onto 25 foot of 5/16 high test and 140 foot of 5/8 nylon. At one time I had only ten feet of chain but the anchor drug one time for about 100 yards before digging back in. Of course I had four other boats rafted on, all larger, as "TALISMAN" was rafting on in the 20 to 25 knot northern wind, the Delta drug. This rode is in the starboard locker. In the port, I have 300 feet of 5/16 high test for bad situations. Other anchors are Danforth P-35, Danforth 13# and T3000. In the cockpit locker I keep 250 feet of 1/2 nylon and couple of 10 foot sections of chain, as well as 100 foot of one inch three strand nylon. The vertical, Simpson Lawrence manual windless is on the forward deck between the cleats and works fair to good. It doesn't have a lot of power but is fast, and goes from the nylon right to the chain with no problem. I thought I would change it when I first got the boat but I'm used to it now and it does not clutter the foredeck and looks good there. Anyway if the deck is pitching I'd rather be down on all fours.

A few items I would like information on are. A copy of the Seawind II owners manual I would very much like to have. The mizzen, portable or running back stays for the staysail, how is it rigged on the mast and how and where on deck? Drawings of the main boom crutch. Information on what type of wind vanes have worked on the Seawind II, what problems are encountered with the ketch rig. I would very much like to have a lines drawing plan and a drawing of the sail plan. I could use these to do all kinds of carpentry work and also buy sails, besides I would love to see the sweet lines that Gilmer drew. He must have done a good job and the keel must have some lift in it, because here is a story that is hard to believe but is true. I had her in a slip on the

Anclote river and was doing some work one beautiful day when the skipper of "VAGABOND" walked by. He stopped and looked for a minute and said "what's holding your boat?". I didn't know what he was talking about and asked him. He replied "look at your lines they are all loose". Sure enough they were all sagging and limp. He reached out and grabbed the bow pulpit saying "you must be on the bottom", as he very easily moved her around in the slip as if the boat was skating on ice, she definitely was not on the bottom. We moved her around for a few minutes and she would always kind of stay where you put her. We couldn't figure it out and went on talking about the next sail. Later after he left I noticed she was back hard on her bow lines in the strong ebb.

Later that night I was talking to a sailing friend, whom I race with, and has a lot of boating experience I told him about the incident at the dock. He suggested that as the boat is in the slip parallel to the river current, that just at the right amount of current the keel produces just enough lift to kind of make her go forward to counter the aft pushing current. This puts everything in equilibrium and could account for the way the boat was just kind of free, floating in air so to speak.

Now I don't know if this is true, some believe it and some don't, but it sounds like a valid explanation. Wonder what Mr. Gilimer would think?



"I've been home-ported in Portsmouth, RI since day one (1979). Occasionally, I do get away for cruising. I'm mainly a single hander and I've sailed from Camden, Maine, to Key West. The only international sailing has been on the Havel River, Berlin, Germany for a short two weeks.

The winter of '86 1 sailed to Florida's Gulf Coast, crossing Lake Okeechobee. I then wintered in Bradenton Beach. Home again in the spring and back to work.

Last winter I tied up at friends' home in Pompano Beach, just of f the Intercoastal Waterway. Then it was a few short trips with them up and down the east coast of Florida. Also single-handed to Key West, which was a great experience. However, I was very disappointed in not getting out to the Bahamas. It was in my plans, but

This winter I made plans for hip surgery in Boston. Doctors convinced me to forget it for the time being, so here I am - - too late to go south.'

20 By the way, I'd like to say "hello" to the Rhudys (040K) of Oriental, N.C. It was a pleasure to talk to them last fall via radio while motoring up the Pamlico River. I had no trouble finding my way up to Washington, N.C. without charts, thanks to their help.

This small town has revitalized their waterfront and welcomes boaters. They offer free docks, water, and electricity. Everyone walks or jogs by, morning and evening, including the mayor: I recommend a stop here for all SW II cruises that pass through this area.

Now, "the boat": Hull/sail *90K, OFFSET of Boston. No, I'm not a printer! She was purchased new by me in the spring of 1979. I moved aboard permanently in June '79. Love the boat and love living aboard.

She's completely insulated and heated by a Dickerson "Antarctic" diesel heater (16,500 Btu) - - the Dickerson line now being owned by Balmar. Very warm and very dry. I also have TV, telephone, stereo, loran, and a Spa Creek "Auto-Mac" (headache) for quick charging.

I use nothing but Sears R/V 110 A-H batteries. Two in parallel for everything; a third for back-up. I replaced two this spring after 5 years; the third this summer after 3 years of constant use. They are recharged by a Bomar charger which, I might add, is 12 1/2 years old. Some years ago I did have a problem of overcharging, but Bomar repaired the charger at no cost to me. Another performance "first" is my Rule "5 Year" bilge pump. It has worked every time for the past 12 1/2 years (knock wood!).

After 8 years, I replaced the condenser and module on my Adler-Barbour refrigeration system. The second unit is still going strong. I believe that success with these units depends upon their constant use. In the same vein, my first dodger lasted 10 years. I never fold it or remove it, summer or winter.

I shower every day with fresh water. Cruising, I use salt water and then go below to quickly rinse off. The problem, after 8 or 9 years, was rot at the base of the oak compression post. I tried repairing it with plastic wood, but that didn't help. I had visions of being hard over and the mast going through the coach roof! I replaced the oak with a teak 2"x 5" post. After slacking the shrouds on deck, we were ready to lift, but found that the saloon flooring would not support a jack. We had to build a bridge for support, and then gently raise the cross member to install the new post.

Another important cabin amenity: Using the original V-berth cushions as a pattern, I approached a local mattress company for a real mattress, with results much to my sleeping pleasure. Cost - $150.

Cooking: I haven't had a TV dinner in years. On a "Gas Systems" stove/oven I cook with compressed natural gas (CNG). Absolutely no complaints. The cost is another story ! Much in CNG's favor is its safety, as it is lighter than air and will dissipate into the atmosphere.

Staying below for another moment, I'm on my third set of cushions and covers in the main cabin. Keep in mind, I'm a live aboard.

To accomodate my diesel heater, I cut back 2 feet on the port settee cushion against the forward bulkhead. Using fire-retardent material and a sheet of stainless steel as underlayment, I then covered them with ceramic tile. It makes the hanging locker warm and mildew-free.

A note to Dick Weaver (075K): I, too, have the same condensation leak running across my sole - - the low corner of the hanging locker and port settee. I notice it only when the electric heater is on, and it is cool outside.

My boat, also, heels slightly to starboard. I raised the starboard boot stripe 1 1/2 inches. So far, I've had no blisters on the hull, but many small ones topside. For bottom paint, I'm happy with Pettit's "Trinidad" (tropical waters) as I only haul out every other year. I do add Star-bright's "Compound X" to the paint for extra protection against grass and barnacles. The problem I want to solve is the propeller. Tin paint was great, but is no longer available. Vaseline works for a short time. I use it on the bottom of my dinghy. It will last about 2 months.

Now, let's go topside: I don't have a large inventory of sails.. a 135% genoa, main, mizzen, storm jib, and a "Thrasher"/cruising spinnaker. All are by Thurstan. It was 10 years on the first set; 2 1/2 years, now, on the second. The roller furling is by Harken. Prior to the Harken I used the old Schaeffer system... for 10 years.

}s5 It's interesting to read how others heave-to or reef in heavy weather. Both George Rowcliffe and Dick Weaver are correct, according to the experts. In the early days, I had trouble finding literature on the correct procedure to heave-to in a ketch. In Lynn and Larry Pardee's "European Adventures", Larry addresses the subject while making a delivery of a ketch. Reef the mizzen. (Above 30 mph it should be reefed already.) Then pull the mizzen sheet as tight as possible with the wheel up and tied of f. The boat will lay 45900 off the wind and seas. The mizzen will repeatedly bring the boat back to 45 . Laying almost broadside to the weather, the boat creates her own smooth slick as she slides off. The oncoming wave will break and harmlessly flow by on either side. The harder it blows the higher you'll point. It works!

At 20 mph I drop the main; at 30 1 reef the mizzen; at 35 I furl 25% of the genoa. The last thing I want to do is go forward to hahk on a storm jib, even when wearing a harness.

Cockpit cushions are vinyl-covered, closed-cell foam, fitted to the curve of the helmsman's seat. They almost never fall off.

Having Reynaud's disease in my fingers, I use a teak wheel (24"d.), which is warmer than stainless steel and therefore makes a big difference in cool weather. The teak wheel is imported from Holland by D. Follensbee, the "Forespar" dealer here in New England. The "Ships' Store", 1 Lagoon Road, Portsmouth, RI 02871 retails them for about $150. The wheel complements the solid teak flooring in the cockpit.

Speaking of teak, if "Cabot" can make a house stain to last 7 years, why can't we get something to last at least a season?

Another object that doesn't survive long on my boat is my 4" cowl vent(s). Jib sheets send them flying. They sink right to the bottom at $100 each! My last two were swept free leaving Hillsboro Inlet at Pompano Beach, FL, this past spring. I took solid green water on deck that swept the entire boat from bow to stern. I wish I had a video of that! I'm going to secure them with steel fishing leaders, unless someone has a better idea - short of stainless steel guards.

For ground tackle, I have three anchors; a Danforth 35 lb. plow, a Danforth 223, and a 35 lb. Herreshoff. I'm seriously considering a Fortress FX16 (7 lb.) that would be easily handled. Friends tell me they are great, and the women can handle them with ease.

For the more recent owners, my next letter will address some of the tricks I've learned about sailing this particular boat.

(Editor's Note: Joe can be reached by phone at (401) 683-5899. I've had the pleasure of talking to him, and HE HAS ANSWERS!)



You asked about a diagram of my plumbing system when I finished it. This is a copy of what I am keeping on the boat so others will understand what I did and how to work the system.

The anti-siphon vent is, of course, at the top of a loop that is above the water line. Valve (4) came with the boat and it was easier to leave it than to remove it. Valve (5) is needed because I replaced the leaking plastic holding tank that came with the boat, with a bladder tank.

Closing off that valve (5) when emptying the tank keeps air from being sucked in. Remember, the holding tank is a flexible bladder tank, and hence can be evacuated without admitting replacement air.

I used a rectangular tank of 14.5 gallons capacity, made by Vetus. It fit reasonably well into the old tank with part of the old tank's top cut off.

The pipe I used on most of the plumbing was the heavy-wall white vinyl tubing made for sanitation systems. It is sort of flexible but a bit hard to work with. However, I found that I could fit it over the valve barbs, etc., if I soaked the end of the tubing for about 45 seconds in boiling water. It was much easier to work the tubing, then.

I hope this helps Someone out there who is faced with the need for a similar or equivalent installation. I would appreciate any feedback or other ideas on this type of system.

(Ed Note: Urgent contact with John can be made during business hours in Seattle, WA at (206) 622-3333. His mailing address is on the roster.






Valve 1 Handle Down Valve 1 ---

Valve 2 --- Valve 2 Handle Down

Valve 3 Handle Right Valve 3 Handle Left

Valve 4 Open Valve 4 ---

Valve 5 Open Valve 5 Closed





Valve 1 Handle Up Valve 1 Handle Down

Valve 2 --- Valve 2 Handle Up

Valve 3 --- Valve 3 Handle Left

Valve 4 --- Valve 4 ---

Valve 5 --- Valve 5 Closed



 The entire Smith family - - original owners Norman and Evelyn Smith, and "new" owners Doug and Dee Smith and their 3 children - -use SUNPOWER (059K) extensively to the full length of Lake Champlain. Two seasons (1979-80) were spent in Long Island Sound, Buzzards Bay, and on the coast of Maine, For the rest of the time SUNPOWER has been in fresh water.

At age 15, she needs only very little work. The main problem is the leaking around the deck-hull joint when rail-down.

Installed a W-C "Skipper" head last season.

Intend to slowly upgrade the electronics during the next 2 years: GPS, Autopilot, Radar, all for a planned trip up through the canal to the St. Lawrence River. Then around the Gaspe Peninsula to Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, Maine, and eventually back up the Hudson River and barge canal to Champlain. Probably would be a 2-season voyage.

To accomodate this new electronic gear, we also intend to "re-configure" the inadequate Captain's table/Nav station.

We would be interested in hosting or organizing a SEAWIND II gathering on Lake Champlain one season to introduce and expose fellow owners to our little secret - - the Virgin Islands of New England.' Would also be willing to organize a "fleet" cruise around the Gaspe, if anyone is interested, summer of 1993 or 1994.

(Ed Note: The Smiths are listed on our Roster. You can reach them by phone at (802)372-4040. A "sail-in" on Lake Champlain sounds like a memorable adventure. perhaps the SW II North East Fleet could make that a mid-summer event, sometime soon.)



The Cruising Boat's Electrical System

George Rowcliffe

An adequate electrical system seems to be the most neglected part of the well -found cruising boat. The builders provide a system that is more appropriate to an automobile, and the owners don't know what to do except to replace their batteries every two or three years and do without all the nice things that an adequate system can provide for them. I am planning to do some extensive cruising and have been looking into electrical systems, so I thought some others of you might be interested in what I have learned.

On my Seawind, typical of most I suspect, I have an ammeter on the alternator. What does it tell me about my electrical system? Very little, I'm afraid. It will tell me how many amps the alternator is generating, period. It tells me nothing about how much electricity I'm using from my batteries, the state of my batteries, nor anything else. Aside from that, it can only be read in gross terms; five amps is about the best interpolation you can hope for and then only when on your hands and knees in the bottom of the cockpit.

My system management is as crude as my instrumentation. When I shut down in the evening I select one of the two 105 amp-hour batteries then I go about my business of supper, log work, plan tomorrow's sail, read a bit, and eventually the lights are too din for any of these activities, so I go to bed. Next morning I switch to the other battery, start the engine, then switch to both batteries and charge them until the ammeter is below ten amps. Next evening I repeat the process using the other battery to even up the wear.

Once in awhile the engine won't start because I haven't been charging enough, or because the batteries are 'worn out. Every three or four years when the batteries 'wear out' I buy some new ones, but that's just the price we pay for our pleasures, right? Well I have been learning that it isn't right and it isn't necessary.

r The more astute among you (astute in the sense of having looked into electrical systems) will recognize that I have committed the two cardinal sins of lead acid battery management. First I over-discharged the battery, then I either over- or under-charged it depending on how my luck was that day and how long I wanted to listen to the engine. A lead acid battery should be discharged to the 50% of capacity point or less, and then should be recharged to about 85% of capacity. But how do I know where these points are located with my lone ammeter?

Batteries can be recharged (and periodically must be) to full capacity, but this takes too long in normal operation. The last 15% will take three to five hours of very carefully controlled charging to fully charge them without boiling off the water. This can be done about once a month if you have the equipment. More on this later.

Batteries don't normally 'wear out.' They are murdered in their infancy by management such as I give mine. A battery lasts three years; four if we have been lucky, instead of the seven to ten years it should last. Good batteries will last even longer, perhaps twenty years, but we don't buy good batteries. They are just as easy to kill as the cheapies and won't last much longer when they are treated this way.

The first need therefore, is to define your needs and develop an adequately sized system from the standpoint of both battery capacity and recharging capability.

Probably I don't have either, considering the electrical loads that I have on the system. My 210 amp hours of capacity should be upgraded to at least 300 and probably nearer 400 amp hours. I should be able to charge at about a 100 amp rate to avoid excessive engine time and control the charging so that the batteries reach 85% of capacity without damage.

Having defined our needs, the next step is to obtain adequate information about what is happening in the system at various points. What is the state of the batteries? How many amp-hours have been used? How much of the alternator current is actually being used to recharge the batteries; how much to run the boat? How long do I need to charge the batteries?

In order to know the state of the batteries we must use one of two techniques. We can take a hygrometer, clean out the starboard locker, then crawl inside and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte periodically as we are charging or using the batteries. This does become a bit of a drag though, since you would need to do it every hour or so. A better alternative is an accurate, precise voltmeter.

Many companies sell 'battery monitor' instruments. Invariably they are expanded scale voltmeters that can be read perhaps as closely as half a volt, if we are lucky enough to have one that even reads volts. Most of them give you vague red, yellow, and green areas that are supposed to tell you something. These will not do. The difference between a fully charged battery at about 12.68 volts and a half discharged one at 12.20 volts is not even readable on a typical needle voltmeter, even with an expanded scale. Instead, we must have one that will read to a hundredth of a volt, and only a digital voltmeter will do this for us.

Checking the charge side of the equation requires an equally precise ammeter that will tell us both how much the alternator is producing and how much is going into the batteries. It must also tell us exactly how many amps we are using when we aren't charging, of course. And then we also need to keep track of how many of those precious amp-hours we have used.

We could keep track of the amp hours with a pencil, paper, stop-watch, and a keen eye on our precision ammeter, but most of us won't bother. An amp-hour meter that adds them all up for us is much easier. It will subtract what we use and add back what we put in while charging. We will always know exactly how many of those little amp-hours are available for us to continue what we are doing, and exactly when we must recharge as we reach the SOX of capacity point.

Once we have the instruments to tell us what we are doing, the second need is to be able to properly control the system, especially the charging cycle of the batteries. Experts say that a lead acid battery should NEVER be discharged below the 50% charge level or 12.2 volts. Charging should take place as rapidly as the battery will accept the current until the battery is about 85% charged, and periodically they should be charged to as nearly 100% as they will take.

With our present systems, if we are willing to continue running the engine, when battery voltage reaches about 13.8 volts the standard voltage regulator just gives up and keeps plugging along at 13.8 volts as the amperage dribbles away to almost nothing. However this charge will only take a battery to about 60% of capacity (aha, that's why my lights go dim so soon in the evening), and we want lots more if we are going to use our batteries efficiently.

In order to get more charge into the battery we must change our technique and the typical voltage regulator is unable to do so. We should use about 14.2 volts initially, then as the current tapers off to about 10% of capacity, or 10.5 amps for my battery, we should drop to 13.8 volts. From here on the current should be controlled rather than the voltage. The standard regulators are incapable of shifting into over-drive in this way.

We could increase the voltage from our voltage regulator, but that would just over-charge the batteries as they aren't capable at that point of handling the increased voltage. Continuing to pour in 14+ volts, even at low amperage, will over-charge the battery and cause it to boil. You and I see this as the frequent need to add water to our batteries, because this is what our voltage regulators do to our batteries if they are set just a bit too high.

The initial bulk charge should be at a rate of about 25% of the capacity of the battery (my 105's should be charged at about 28 amps - or 56 amps if I am charging both of them). Charging should begin at 14.2 volts initially. As the batteries recharge the amperage should taper off slowly and at about 10% of the initial charge rate the voltage should be dropped to about 13.8 volts. We should continue charging at a low amperage rate to bring the batteries to the 85% charge level. This is called the absorption cycle and is generally putting in current as fast as the batteries will absorb it.

In practice you will see a charging current at about 20% of capacity for a period of time, then the amperage will drop to zero or even a slight discharge. After the batteries rest (allowing time for the internal chemical reactions) the amperage will ramp back up to the 20% level and resume charging. After a couple of cycles the charge rate will very rapidly drop below the 20% level as the battery voltage rises.

During the absorption cycle of the charging process the alternator voltage is held at 13.8 until the maximum current flow drops to about 5% or less of capacity (about 10 amps on my system). The batteries are now about 85% charged, perhaps a little more if they are new batteries. Continuing to charge to the 100% level will now take many hours and isn't practical on a daily basis. If you are using an amp-hour meter to keep track of your usage it will now read very close to zero, shoving that the batteries have reached their 'normal' fully charged state.

Instead we should put the batteries onto a float voltage of about 13.2 volts. This is the maintenance level and the batteries can be maintained near fully charged with no gassing and no harmful effects for rather long periods. If the battery is fully charged it can be 'floated' for an indefinite period -many years- with no loss of efficiency or life expectancy.

Failing to fully charge the battery allows lead sulfate to accumulate on the plates. With time the sulfate flakes off, drifts to the bottom, and eventually shorts out one of the cells. The sulfate that stays on the plates reduces the efficiency of the battery. If you really want to kill a battery, just fully discharge it then let it sit for a few weeks. The sulfate will be thick enough that it will no longer take a charge at all.

So we need some provision for removing the sulfate. This can be done various ways, but the easiest is to simply condition the batteries once a month or so by feeding them about 4% of their capacity for as long as they will take it. This would be about 4 amps for one of my batteries, and generally three to four hours at this rate will remove the sulfate. If the battery is good the voltage will rise to the vicinity of 16 volts, ideally it should reach 16.2 volts. This controlled over-charge will convert the lead-sulfate back into lead and sulfuric acid. It will also cause some gassing and the batteries might need a bit of water when you finish. Again, the standard voltage regulator is not capable of this small controlled current charge to a relatively high voltage.

Both the instrumentation to tell what is happening in your system and the controls to take care of your batteries have been in existence for many years. These systems have also, until recently, been ghastly expensive in terms of cruising budgets.

Solid state technology is revolutionizing this field just as it is many others. Economical, efficient systems are now available to do all of these things for us. With only a little improvement in the world of batteries and systems you may only need one set of batteries in your lifetime. Even now if you use premium batteries such as Surrette or Rolls and properly care for them, you probably won't need more than two sets.

Two companies are building variations of these control and instrumentation systems: Ample Power Company and Cruising Equipment. I will provide addresses for these shortly, as well as some further reading. Balmar is also beginning to enter the field, and I'm sure that there are others. Each of the companies sells a variety of instruments and components that will provide you with the information and control you need to manage your electrical system.

I hope to be able to write of more direct experience in the future in using one of these systems. I also plan to write more on batteries (worth a volume or two at least) and battery chargers as I continue my studies in these areas.


Cruising Equipment (Rick Proctor and Neal Fridley)

6315 Seaview Avenue, NW

Seattle, WA 98107

Phone: 206-782-8100

Ample Power Company}par 1150 NW 52nd Street

Seattle, WA 98107

Phone: 206-789-5758


Balmar Products

1537 NW Ballard Avenue

Seattle, WA 98107

Further Reading:

"The Bullet Proof Electrical System"

(Available from Cruising Equipment. This is also a catalog of their equipment).

"Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power"

(Discusses a great deal more than electrical systems, including refrigeration and other topics.)

"Wiring 12 Volts for Ample Power"

(The above two books are available from Ample Power. Both include extensive bibliographies and lists of sources. The cost is about $35.00 and well worth it.)


Two years ago I was able to retire on an "early out" from my government job at the National Institutes of Health, and have been able to spend more time doing what I really enjoy - messing about in boats. Got a USCO captain's license some years ago, and have finally had the time to use it for more than an occasional week end job. Have taken a Bristol 56' back and forth to Florida several times, and last week just returned from bringing a Grand Banks 42' up from Ft. Lauderdale During the summer and late fall I worked a good bit for some local charter companies, and sailed my Seawind "Windsong" to Maine and back.

I left Annapolis the middle of July and returned the middle of September. A neighbor went with me from here straight to Block Island, and for the rest of the trip I soloed. I absolutely loved it. The weather was fantastic - heard a number of Maine people say they never remember such a beautiful summer. And of course the Seawind handles so easily that the trip was a delight. Went from Block Is. to Chatham for a family wedding, and then across to Monhegan Is. From there meandered all the way up the coast, around Campobello Is. in Canada, back over behind Eastport to "Federal Harbor" where I rode out the hurricane, and then back down through Maine and on down the coast to Annapolis. Would like to have stopped at Shelter Is, but the family was getting excited that I had been away so long, so just kept moving.

Never saw another Seawind owner with whom to chat, but did see a dark blue hull boat up in the Concordia yard at South Dartmouth (Padanaram), MS. I do not remember the name or number except that it was within a few boats of mine (28), yet looked brand new. Had been pulled just before "Bob" devastated the harbor, so was not hurt.

At a bookshop up the road somewhere I saw a fascinating book This Old Boat. by, I think, Don Conyers -- I didn't write his name down. Anyway it is on the remodeling of older boats, and the bio of him says he sails a Seawind, although I did not recognize a picture among the many in the book. At a hurried glance, I thought It was one of the best of those kinds of books I have seen.

I'll quickly run down some of the things I have done to "Windsong" & plan to do items:

Made a teak grate for the top of the mahogany bowsprit. Keep it oiled/natural, and it surely does protect the varnished mahogany underneath. as well as improves the footing. Just unbolt it when the mahogany needs revarnishing. While it's off I scrub and re-oil it.

Added a ProFurl and 135 jib a year and a half ago. A fantastic improvement, although in light air I miss the lighter 150 I had been using. Would like to add another stay someway so that I could still hank on the 150 for light air and wing and wing or a storm jib. Glenn Howsley her in Annapolis made the sail and installed the ProFurl. Although he makes a good sail I would not recommend him to anyone again. I felt he ripped me off on the price (charging a good bit more than we had agreed), didn't deliver the sail until Labor Day week end, although I had paid him for most of it before Christmas, and installed the Profurl the first of July, which meant I couldn't use any of my hank on sails or sail the boat for two months in the middle of the summer. All spring and summer he kept assuring me, "You'll have It by Friday." I don't know how the guy stays in business.

(Ed Note: See Associate Dan Smith's ANNEX II, p.7 and 8 for more details on this book and one by Tom Gillmer.)

Put a pair of hinges and latches on the electric panel behind the companionway ladder. - Quite an improvement over removing screws. Will do the same in the cockpit locker.

Raised the sink about 8" by building a plywood box setting the sink back in it. Did this as a temporary solution before going to Bermuda in '83, and if I liked it I intended to do a nice job in teak. I like it, but have never upgraded the rough job. I put a shut off valve under the sink, but have never had to turn it off as water just does not come up inside. It also allows more room in the locker below, and provides a high fiddle to keep things from sliding off the counter.

Cut hand holes on each edge of the boards that fit between the cockpit lockers and the engine. Mine are 3/4" plywood, and the hand holds make it so much easier to pull them out and move. Seems to me these could have been 1/4", certainly 3/8" would have been heavy enough. However, having everything built heavy and strong is one of the things I like about the Seawind.

Also cut hand holes in the sides of the companionway ladder between the top three steps. This not only gives another good hand hold when below, but facilitates moving the ladder. If this is nicely done it also improves the appearance of the ladder.

Put a foot pump in the galley for fresh water. - Find it is much handier instead of turning on the pressure water. if I ever go to sea for any length of time, I'll add a salt water foot pump.

Varnished all the exterior teak. Did have Deks Olje on there for about 12 years, but it was pretty dark, and I found did not hold up as well advertised over the long haul. Have used the new Z-Spar "Flagship" varnish, and find it looks beautiful, easy to apply, and holds up excellently. Supposed to have S-6 times the UV inhibitors as the old Z-Spar "Captains."

For a sun awning, I drop the mizzen and put an awning over it. The boat doesn't sail quite as well on some headings, but it sure provides nice shade. Also added a dodder last summer, which I had never had, and surely improved the trip to Maine!

Took out the long drain hoses from the deck scuppers, and put new drains slightly aft of the deck scupper and just below the hull/deck joint. Works beautifully, allows more space in the cockpit lockers, and lets the bilge pumps have their own drain. When I had asked Tom Oilmer about doing this some years ago, he replied it's a matter of whether you want a yacht or a workboat. He expected dingy stains down the topsides, but I have not found that to happen, and it surly simplifies life by not having to up with the other arrangement.

Replaced the plastic exhaust thru-hull with a bronze one. if you haven't done this, I highly recommend it. My plastic one had melted off. Whether at some time it got too hot, or the years just took their toll, I don't know. But I believe the exit should be through metal not plastic.

Down below I have never liked what Wright/Allied did with the interior. The seats are about as over

uncomfortable as they could have been made, and I think the formica is downright ugly, even though functional. Ever since seeing Milt & Judy Baker's white paint job on the formica. I have been moving in that direction. Trying to get all the teak varnished first, and hopefully this summer put white paint on the formica. The backs of the seats are too straight and too high. At the boat shows I have sat in all kinds of seats to see why some are comfortable. The back needs a slight slope, and should be low enough that you can easily lay an arm on it when seated. I going to cut the cushions down, cut them in shorter lengths, and add some slope to the cushions. They can still be picked up or moved for sleeping to give a wider birth. Last year I varnished the sole and put a couple of cheap ($6 or $8) oriental rugs down. Just really gave the cabin a sparkle! And am sure as I finish the rest of it, it will look even better.

My plastic opening ports need replacing, so maybe I'll get to that this summer. The gaskets are leaking & I've been unable to find anything that will work.

Added some cross grating to the head grate and varnished that, so it looks more finished. Stow the man over board pole standing up in the corner. When I'm solo sailing I don't need it. I became a great believer in the LifeSling at the first USNA Safety at Sea Seminar several years ago. Believe all boats should be equipped with this device if there is more than one person aboard. I take mine on charters I captain when there is not one aboard.

One of the handiest things - Removed the oil dipstick and fitting in the bottom of the engine pan. Put a "T" in it with the vertical part pointing down with a plug/cap. When reinstalled, slanted dipstick forward so it can be easily reached from the cabin. Have to measure for the oil filter and alternator as they can be slightly in the way. To change oil, just slide a 5qt fairly flat oil jug with a hole cut in the top of one flat side underneath the "T", remove the plug, and voila! the oil is in the jug. Carefully rotate it and lift it out. On occasion I have done it very carefully and not spilled a drop. The more usual drill is to allow the jug to slip slightly so that some of the oil still runs into the drip pan, which of course can still be easily wiped out.

When my old Seafarer depth finder quit this summer while In Maine, I tried to mount the transducer of the new unit in the same inside spot where the Seafarer had worked perfectly all these years. Couldn't get it to read anywhere inside the boat, so jury-rigged it on a stick over the transom until the next time I haul the boat. But this unit only reads to 200', and I found a number of times in Maine that wanted something more than that, so I'll get something with greater depth. The old Seafarer would read 6X60 fathoms.

I have had a few blisters, mostly about the size of a thumb nail. Have been hauling the boat every three to four years, but these new tinless paints look like they are going to need it every other year. Last time I had several about the size of a large hen egg. In each case I just cleaned them out with a chisel, & refilled with some kind of epoxy filler. I am not aware of any of the ones done in previous years that have failed or reappeared. This seems a simpler solution than doing the whole bottom, unless there are so many it has to be done. In the meantime, every year that passes gives the industry that much more experience with what doesn't work




 We purchased the Allied Seawind II ketch "Seagull", hull 014, March 21, 1990 in Naples, Florida. She was lightly used as the 10 year second owner had health problems for some time. The Westerbeke 4-91 hour meter was inoperative at 890 hours and the owner estimated the time to be 1000 hours. The survey showed a few problems which were corrected at the owner 5 expense: The cutless bearing was slightly loose and was replaced; The bottom rudder shaft support was loose so a new bronze bushing was installed; The heat exchanger dripped from it's end cap corroding the oil cooler- both were replaced at a parts cost of $400 and $300; The genoa was resewn where stitching was frayed; There was one 1-1/2 inch blister at the waterline, it was left and it's appearance has not changed.

Interior: Off shore model with starboard pilot berth which is used as storage for items in milk crates, sewing machine, portable stereo, etc. The previous owner built of teak an excellent double bookcase with Alladdin lamp holder on the port bulkhead. The lamp is great for heating in cool or wet weather, very bright and adjustable. Two dive tanks in padding fit to port behind the back cushions. screwed a canvas lee cloth under the port berth cushion where it is stored with the line to lace it's eyelets to the overhead handholds when at sea. The stove is an alcohol Kenyon 600, long obsolete though burner repair parts are available. We carried our propane camp stove for backup or if in a hurry. A Hella turbo fan is ceiling mounted to the port side of the companionway. It is very efficient and moves quite a lot of air with only a 180 ma. draw. We installed single tube fluorescent over the icebox and just inside the V berth ceiling. This second one provides reading light in both compartments with only a half-amp draw. In the V berth port side 4 holes were drilled into the upper back of the anchor locker to accept fishing rod tip ends and pole spears. Further back a notched piece of teak with flat swiveling gates supports the other ends up and out of the way.

Navigation Equipment: The depth sounder and knot-log were antiquated. We replaced them with Standard DS10 and KL10 liking their reputation along with the lifetime flat rate repair warranty. We installed an Apelco 6300 Loran C mounting the antenna at the top of the mizzen mast. We carry a Lokata RDF which is used infrequently but could back up the Loran.

Cockpit: The mizzen boom being only 5 feet high was intolerable. raised the boom 12 inches and had 10 inches cut from the mizzen's foot. Our sail plan drawings indicate that modification #3 of 12/11/75 lengthened the mizzen tube one foot. This likely corrected the problem on later models? A small canvas shop designed a bimini that fit beneath the boom from the mizzen mast to the mizzen sheet. The $450 cost was reasonable and it is the most important addition we have made. had aluminum boos on the original model but it has worked so well we have left it as is. Judy sewed Sunbrella weather cloths to provide privacy as well as protection from wind and spray. A motor mount block holds the 4 hp Evinrude on the stern rail. Closed cell foam cushions with washable slipcovers make comfortable seating.

On Deck: We installed port hoods and appreciate them in wet conditions. Our 8 foot Sumner hard dinghy is carried forward of the mast. At anchor it's bow is raised with a halyard making a combination wind scoop/raincover for the forward hatch. It is launched and retrieved with the main halyard and whisker pole. The inflatable is carried beneath the main boom or is deflated. Our swim ladder (manufacturer unknown) Is a removable flat-step folding type, 41' x 6"x 12" folded, that mounts In 2 slotted fittings at the port gate. It Is strong and stable, has 2 rubber-footed standoffs and Is used boarding the dinghies as well.

Ground Tackle: We upgraded the 25 lb. CQR to a 33 lb. Bruce with 60 feet of 5/16" chain on 200 feet of 1/2" nylon. It Is carried on the bow roller alongside the 20 lb. standard Danforth which Is pinned In a hawse pipe with 20 feet of 3/8" chain and 150 feet of 5/8" nylon. Whenever possible I dive on the anchors to check or reset them by hand. Our last night In the Bahamas brought a squall of around 60 knots and most boats dragged, several past us.

Sail: The 130 genoa Is on a Famet Profurl. We have come to like roller furling for cruising and the sail set Is not bad even partially furled. Our main has 3 sets of reef points. We blew the lower seam In gusty Bahamas winds and spent 8 hours stitching hole for hole with heavy dacron thread.

Engine/Running Gear: Fram filters are Installed. When first replaced the prim filter/separator appeared to have had lengthy service with thick sludge around the bottom of the cartridge. during subsequent replacements both filters have been clean. Biobor or other additive Is added at each fueling. We suck warm engine oil through the dipstick with a Water Puppy bilge pump. Fram PHl6 oil filters are about $2 at discount stores. Fram discontinued manufacture of the CA12 air filter in 1990 so we stocked several found at a small boatyard. The raw water pump Is a Jabsco 5320-0011. Back to back Impeller failures were caused by a severely etched wear plate. After installing a rebuild kit, polishing then greasing the housing we had no further problems. Our Hurth drive rear seal has been leaking and will require replacement. I have been told it is a small job and also that it is a major one. Does anyone have advice?

Electrical: We have no refrigeration and selected low current electronics and lighting to manage consumption. Three Delco deep cycle maintenance-free batteries have worked well. Their capacity was less than expected until I discovered that whenever a battery was selected by one of the bank switches about 2 amps flowed through the alternator field winding. Some wiring changes are evident so I believe this Is not normal. I 'd guess the ignition switch, If there was one, or possibly a fuel pressure switch should open this circuit with the engine off. To get around this I put a plug on the battery switch field disconnect wires. this Is connected whenever the engine Is run to charge batteries. The Guest battery switch failed (field disconnect always open) and the manufacturing date stamp of 1988 showed It had been recently replaced. The new one purchased In a sealed package was defective- I checked It with a meter before installing and the field disconnect was always open! After a phone call to Guest products In Meriden, CT. the switch was returned with a letter suggesting that they may want to disassemble It to determine the fault In their manufacturing process. Despite several letters, no response or refund has arrived as they promised. We received a Guest anchor light at a farewell party which also failed to operate out of the box and required exchange. I would not recommend their products.

Misc: A 650 watt Honda generator is wrapped and strapped forward in the port lazarette. Judy operates her sewing machine from it and we needed it once when the batteries were too flat to start the engine. made a rain-catcher with a 10 X 12 nylon tarp, a thru hull in the center and some 1/2 inch garden hose. It attaches to the shrouds but becomes unusable in more than light winds. It has collected 30+ gallons in minutes. "Joy" dish soap saltwater baths end with a rinse from the warm sunshower. To it's hose is added a sink dish rinsing hose assembly with the press handle. A better spray from increased pressure results from being pulled higher on a halyard. The head would intermittently overflow because of a corroded check valve ball that would not always seat properly. I built an entry alarm using Radio Shack components costing around $30. A loud siren warbles continuously if the system is armed and the companionway hatch slid 1/2" or more to gain entry. If anyone wants the plans, I 'd gladly furnish them.

Before our next cruise we'll install an autopilot and possibly refrigeration. Of course then we'd need a larger alternator and possibly a wind generator. Sure be nice to convert to a propane stove too and.........

-------------------- # --------------------


Judy and I left Minnesota January 15, 1990 with a small RV and trailer to travel 3000 miles on the boat search. had subscribed to Florida Sailboat Trader for several months clipping ads and grouping them in scrapbook fashion. Though we had not yet seen an Allied Seawind, Proper Yacht and Practical Sailor were favorable in their evaluations. There was a page in our book for them, one being for sale in Naples, Fl.

From Charleston, S.C. to Melbourne, Fl., from the Florida panhandle to Naples we left a wake of brokers and owners wondering why they couldn't sell us something we didn't want. A phone call to the broker in Naples arranged a next morning appointment. drove by that evening and sat looking with that feeling coming on. After a thorough examination the negotiations, sea trials and survey became just formalities and Seawind II, hull 014 was ours.

She was sparsely equipped and so after numerous trips to marine stores and multiple UPS shipments her new name became apparent. sailed "Pickpocket" to Key West, Key Largo, then a fast crossing on the stream to West End in the Bahamas. After a month of fishing, lobstering and sightseeing in the Abacos, we sailed for Georgetown, S.C. on what proved an interesting trip. Trolling under sail Judy caught a 20 - 30 Lb. tuna which was taken by a large shark. After a lengthy battle, the tuna's head was retrieved with the following shark making excellent photos. The Coast Guard boarded us that day and again that night for a drug search about 250 miles offshore. Next a Titan missile launch lit up the sky. When the welcome smell of pines reached us, so did the worst storm we've experienced. At one point I asked Judy to find what was plugging the scuppers as the water was above our ankles. There was nothing! A 24 foot sport fishing boat nearby capsized and 3 men clung to it with sharks bumping them until a Coast Guard cutter found them 27 hours later. Incidentally, we have seen and listened to numerous Coast Guard assists where they have performed far beyond the call of duty. are grateful for their presence. Isn't it a luxurious feeling to tie up in a snug harbor, shower, eat in a restaurant, then crash for needed rest?

After a short sail out to Southport we enjoyed the ICW to Norfolk then out again to New York City. We stayed two weeks at Marine Basin Marina in Brooklyn visiting our son who settled there. What a contrast in one day's sail - New York City to Cold Spring Harbor! That night with our Tchaikovsky music wafting across the anchorage a white swan glided up to us in the light of the full moon-Magic! We reached Plymouth, Ma. and enjoyed sightseeing, especially Plymouth Plantation.

Two of our children in the military arranged to visit us in New York City so we quickly sailed back and had a grand reunion. We retraced our route South via the Dismal Swamp Canal and the ICW to Riviera Beach, Fl. our jumpoff point to winter in the Bahamas. Agonizing weeks followed as the Persian Gulf War unfolded with our daughter in a desert tent maintaining MO aircraft at Dhahran, Saudi Arabia. We entertained visiting friends and family much of the winter and enjoyed volunteer work at the Catholic mission school in Marsh Harbour.

Summer arrived and we reluctantly departed Grand Cays for Jacksonville having one difficulty along the way. Starting the engine to charge batteries revealed that the water pump impeller was gone, the spare that we had installed just days before. Our oil change bilge pump connected between the inlet and the heat exchanger worked well and the St. John's River landmark was our son's aircraft carrier, the Saratoga, just returned from the gulf war.

We put Pickpocket in storage at the friendly marina in Green Cove Springs and returned to renew the cruising kitty. My retirement pay begins in 22 months at age 55 and we may then sell the house. Until then we are working extra jobs to save all we can.

The best part of cruising was the wonderful people on other boats and ashore. Pickpocket lived up to all of our expectations and performed flawlessly in all conditions. We look forward to the day we sail her again.

-------------------- # --------------------



Last November my wife, Christy, and I purchased our SEAWIND II ketch, sail number 10, in Seattle, Washington. After years of searching for a particular style and construction of vessel, we found this boat through John Martinson, a very good broker for Sailboats Northwest in Seattle.

The boat had been on the market for over two years and had essentially lain idle for that period or longer before we took her for a test sail. We wrote an offer that was contingent upon the test sail and a survey. The sail was satisfactory, but the survey pointed up numerous items of concern.

The customary negotiations followed; we being encouraged by the potential we saw in a boat that could, in time, be rehabilitated into a seaworthy vessel. GENTLE PROMISE II, as we now call her, became ours and is currently drydocked in Seattle for extensive work such as:

- Hull grinding, followed by application of a 2-part West System coating and total paint job, etc.

- Repair/replacement of thru-hull and deck fittings, with proper bedding. A new bobstay, ss stern rail, and stern ladder are being installed, also.

- New sails, running rigging, winch and sail covers, etc., have been ordered so as to bring GENTLE PROMISE II up to her full sailing potential.

- Comprehensive servicing of the Westerbeke 4-91 fuel, lube, and air filters and lines was done. Unexpected replacements of an engine mount, new propeller shaft, and cutlass bearing were deemed necessary and were installed.

- Other numerous structural, functional, and cosmetic replacements & additions are being undertaken, also.

The boat's condition reflected several years of disuse, a peril to any boat's wellbeing. This necessitated not only the extensive repair & replacement work such as mentioned above, but also comprehensive cleaning throughout the interior of the hull. The installation of updated electronics and cabin amenities will bring the boat up to present-day standards, to our great satisfaction.

Back issues of the newsletters are in hand, thanks to John Winters (083C). Those newsletters have answered some of my questions, to-date. I also have the parts & service manual on the Westerbeke 4-91. A manual for the boat, itself, would be wonderful to have, as would suggestions and advice regarding repairs, replacements, and reconditioning of almost anything that would respond to such attention! (A little word of cheer & encouragement from other SW II Owners would be of great comfort to Christy and me, as we labor, hands-on, with this enormous project.)

-------------------- # --------------------

Ed Note: In developing the foregoing report, the editor took some liberties with Peter's very thorough and "colorful" letter. We are indeed fortunate to have a fellow-owner with such indomitable spirit in our SW II organization. (You can reach Peter by phone at (503)382-0117 or 385-5069.)



As I promised, enclosed are a few words about my experiences with the truly wonderful diesel engine cleverly hidden within my Wright Allied Seawind II. few years ago, at an in-water boat show, I met a former salesperson for the Allied firm. This individual had spent many hours at the Seawind factory and informed me of a fact that I had already suspected but truly didn't want to hear. The Westerbeke 4-91 engine was indeed installed into the hull before the deck molding was installed and sealed. This very permanent installation, well hidden from view and even better concealed from reasonable access, demanded a fine engine that would require a minimum of service and be extremely durable. The good news is that the basic engine block is a British taxi cab diesel designed and built to provide long and hard service. (It's a British "Leyland" engine long since gone out of production). The bad news is that this beautiful engine was imported and "modified" for marine duty by Westerbeke, a company long on advertising hucksters and short on engineering skills and quality control.

In November of 1989, "Practical Sailor" magazine ran an article "Life with Prudence P.". The article alluded to some not so pleasant experiences with the Westerbeke organization. Having had some similar experiences, I wrote to "Practical Sailor" about my victimization and "Practical Sailor" published my letter to them in their February 1, 1990 issue. copy of the "Practical Sailor" letter is attached.

The moral of this tale is simple. If any of our fellow Seawind II owners are faced with the problem of repowering with a new engine, and your mechanic even suggests a new Westerbeke, run as fast as you can and call the police. If someone suggests a Universal diesel, be aware that Westerbeke now owns and operates the former Universal line of marine engines. This is not well known and not heavily advertised. If any are unfortunate enough to have to repower, insist on an engine fully created for marine service by its original builder and not bastardized by a "supplier to the marine industry". Perkins diesels are one brand that is still supplied by the original builder in a marine form. Perkins has discontinued manufacture of the 4-l08, an all time "quality" engine that really is too big for the Seawinds. (I'd enjoy the challenge of putting one in. What a motorsailer that would be).

I'm sure I have now offended the true sailors amongst us but having slugged many many miles on rivers that are not wide enough to tack upon, I can assure you that the 4-91 will only provide around 3 knots thru the water in the face of a 20 knot headwind singing in the rigging. Perkins 4-108 would allow the Seawind to travel at hull speed (around knots) in the face of such headwinds and greater. Incidentally, the code for interpreting diesel numbers used to be: 4 meant four cylinders and l meant ninety one cubic inch displacement. Thus, a Perkins 4-108 is a 4 cylinder 108 cubic inch displacement engine. (While the displacement of 108 cubic inches is only a little more than our Westerbeke 91 cubic inches, the available power output (horse power) is close to double.

The really good news is that with a little tender care and constant attention to the junk that Westerbeke attached to the engine, our little taxi cab engine should outlive the Seawind hull which in turn should outlive all of us.

Most of the engine attachments that Westerbeke provided can be replaced with-out removing the engine from the boat. You may have some unkind words for Thomas Gillmer and his ideas concerning engine access, but a few aspirins (to ease the arthritic pain) and a little Vaseline applied to the appropriate body parts to ease passage between hull and engine, will for the most part., provide the defective part freedom from its' confinement. If it's a Westerbeke part, for heaven sake don't send it to Westerbeke for repair or replacement. If possible, have a local machine shop effect the repair or replacement. If the part required is a "Leyland" part, unfortunately Westerbeke is the only place you can get it and you will pa -------- ! It's extremely unlikely that you could create such a part for less than Westerbeke will charge, which in turn is the basis for Westerbeke's price. GOTTCHA!

Frequent replacement of the following filters, along with at least a once-aseason or every 100 hrs. or less, draining and replacement of engine oil should keep your taxi running just fine.

Oil filter Fram part/number PH16 or NAPA p/n 1307 about $3.00

Fuel filter AC Delco p/n ACD51 or NAPA p/n 3l66 about $4.00

Air filter AC p/n A249C about $2.50 each. (This part is not common

stock at automotive supply houses. I had to get my dealer to order a case of filters for me. A case is 6 filters and costs around $16.00). The Oil and Fuel filters are usually in stock since they are in wide automotive use. The air filter was originally used on a gasoline powered golf cart. (Ain't too many golf courses that allow gas carts anymore). AC is the only manufacturer I could identify who still manufactures this very obsolete filter. If you need them, better buy some while they are still available.

For oil, I use SAE 30 with the designation SD. SC is OK but SD is better. SC, SF, & S6 are not diesel engine certified. You should use an oil that is rated CC or better.

At the risk of boring you, I can always tell when my fuel filter needs replacing. The engine begins to speed up when I'm slowly trying to come along-side a dock. Sounds crazy I know, but it has to do with the flow of fuel to the engine speed governor. Our 4-91 is speed governed. When you think you are opening the throttle, you are really advancing the speed governor. Next time you cream a dock at near full throttle, blame it on your fuel filter. At a minimum, you'll impress no one and witnesses may in fact avoid you in the future. (Us geniuses are so often misunderstood).

Well Dick, thats about all for this entry. I'm not a diesel expert and I wouldn't dream of trying to rebuild my basic engine block myself. I prefer to leave that to real machinists and engine rebuilders. I have however , had to repair and even redesign some of Westerbeke's attachments just to keep my Seawind II (Summerwind) hull # 5, going. I've been pretty good about changing oil and filters and while my engine has around l600 hrs. on it (the hour meter quit quite awhile ago) the little engine is running strong.



Don't Fence Me In

I have a question with regard to the weakness of stanchions and lifeline fittings (Oct 1, 1989).

Why doesn't anyone use stainless tubing all the way around, instead of just for the pulpit and the pushpit?

George Ross

San Juan Capistrario, CA

As demonstrated in our tests of stanchions, tubing fails quite easily. Like any structural lube, once kinked, it surrenders its columnar strength. Tubing also would add weight and windage, provide a poorer emergency handhold, be more painful to fall against and, if damaged, probably be more difficult to repair.

Hooks and Tethers

Dale Nouse. in his generally excellent analysis of tethers and hooks (Dec. 1, 1989), makes a few observations that I feel should be debated.

I have two comments with regard to tire recommendation not to use the quick release shackle. First, Mr. Nouse requires a jackline/strong point arrangement that does not permit the user to go over the rail. I know of no such arrangement that allows you to effectively perform all on-deck functions and still keep you from going over the rail.

Second, Mr. Noose says quick-release shackles can open inadvertently. or when shock loaded. In my opinion, the probability of accidental opening is negligible and about equal to a Wichard safety snap accidentally opening. The shock-load opening of snap shackles takes place when two forces occur simultaneously: high oscillations and high-end force loads, such as snap-shackled sheet on a flogging headsail.

In 1985 we did a series of tests involving overboard attachment with a 6' tether, a 200-pound person, while under speed at four knots. The force load on the tether with the person being dragged in the water amidship was 1760 pounds. It was virtually impossible to cut the line due to body position, force loads, and just trying not to drown. Until we conducted these tests, Survival Technologies Group did not offer quick

release type tethers, and then for a period we offered both. Now all we manufacture are quick release type.

J. Kelsey Burr

Survival Technologies


St. Petersburg, FL

I feel compelled to write regarding a problem I have with a Wichard tether hook.

Just outside the companionway I installed two U-bolts on the vertical surface of the bridge deck for safety harness attachment.

If the hook is twisted so that the torsion bar bears against a leg of the U-bolt, it will release with uncanny and scary ease. This can also happen with an eye bolt.

John S. Dennis

Charlottetown, PEI


As a yachtsman, a member of the ABYC, and President of a marine industry-related company, I deal constantly with the requirements for building and retrofitting electrical systems on boats of all sizes according to Coast Guard specifications. You should be aware that there is one set of regulations regarding pleasure craft, and a completely different set dealing with Title 33, Inspected Vessels.

In either case, the wiring described on the Tartan 34 (Dec. 1, 1989) under the paragraph headed "The AC System" does not meet specifications. Part 183.435 states that the wiring for systems over 50 volts must be of stranded construction. Solid conductor wiring is not acceptable on any yacht according to these specifications.

The other problem I have with this article is in the paragraph headed "Battery Charging." The K-Mart 10-amp unit described is not safe for use on or around boats, especially any boat with a gasoline engine. There is a very good reason that marine chargers cost so much more than their automotive counterparts. They are designed with different types of rectifier systems so they won't blow Mr. Dwelle and his boat off the lake!

Your publication is used by many who are of the "Do It Yourself" society, and

as such many might be misled by the article into leaving substandard wiring or using some equipment not designed for nor safe to use on or around boats.

Jerry Silverman

American Standard

Wire & Cable

Bayshore, NY


Enjoyed "Life with Prudence P." (Nov. 1, 1989), including your adventures with Westerbeke.

My Westerbeke 4-91 developed a serious leak in the circulating water pump. Normally a repair kit can be had for under $10, but Westerbeke apparently can't be bothered to stock water pump repair parts. Rather, they will supply a whole new water pump.

First you make numerous long-distance calls to try to identify the part (it isn't listed in the service manual supplied with the engine). Then you are told you must order it through a distributor (Marysville Marine in Michigan). Marysville will not sell you a part without a purchase order from a recognized marine dealer.

On a hunch that I might try a Perkins 4-108 pump for size, a local Perkins dealer loaned me a new pump, priced at $51.85. It didn't quite fit. Finally in frustrated desperation, I paid Palmer Johnson, my local dealer, to place an order with Marysville Marine so that they could ask Westerbeke to ship the water pump. Westerbeke did, for $299.95.

Interesting that Westerbeke finds it necessary to charge six times what Perkins asks for a similar part. Especially since the cost of the pump was 30 times what a pump repair kit is worth (which is all I needed).

I was glad that Prudence P. was helping me support the Westerbeke organization. It seems easier to pay when you realize you're not the only victim.

Fred Meyer

Algonquin, IL










Practical Sailor February 1, 1990