Date: Wed Jun 16, 1999 6:23 pm
Has anyone ever removed the bowsprit? If so, what problems did you encounter?
Date: Fri Oct 1, 1999 2:10 pm
If anyone has a really workable suggestion for carrying a large Danforth together with a large CQR on the bowsprit, let me know.
Date: Fri Aug 25, 2000 8:42 am
I've done something terrible to my boat and need any and all information on the bow roller/forestay attachment assembly. I need to know about suppliers, manufacturers or any leads anyone has. Also any information on the bowsprit construction would be helpful.
Date: Fri Aug 25, 2000 5:20 pm
Sorry to hear about your mishap. Leaving tomorrow for Paris and San Fran until 28 Sept. I have little time. Just to say that the bowsprit arrangement is a conventional platform with a rod for bobstay. I did not like the two chocks at the forward end because of the stress on the bowsprit and the roller furler/forestay, so I brought them to the root of the bowsprit, at its junction with the deck joint. I replaced the original chocks with two rollers from Simpson Lawrence (normally used for a stern anchor).
I kept the original stainless shape that links the forestay to the bobstay and carries a bow roller, and bolted on each side a long roller from Simspon Lawrence, which accept my day anchor (22lb Claw, sets well but won't hold unless I tie it to 28' of heavy 5/16" chain, the original 8' of 3/8" was OK for the Danforth) on port and my 35lb Delta with 150' of 1/4" chain and 150' of 1/2" nylon. These took the place of the original chocks.
I also reinforced the bowsprit with a stainless steel plate under the bowsprit, covering its forward 10". That served me well when my transmission cable gave up upon taking the fuel dock in Porto Santo (Madeira Group) and I found myself without reverse power in a tricky wind situation... I only had to redress the ss strap that vaults above the portside new anchor roller, from its assumed cauliflower shape.
No time for diagrams, not even for going on board and take measurements. Let us know what you really need.
Date: Sat Aug 26, 2000 11:09 am
Don't fret! The bow roller on the seawind is common Stainless Steel
welded and drilled. Any Stainless Steel Fabrication shop should be able
to make one from 316 or 304 SS.
Suggest that if you have the old one to have it repaired or else take a
paper drawing and measurements of the existing ones on any vessel that
close by convenient. Take that to the Fabrication shop for an estimate
and your done in less than a day.
Date: Sat Aug 26, 2000 3:00 pm
I have a CQR on the bow roller and the Danforth hanging on the bow pulpit. I really dislike this arrangement. I've been thinking about installing two new rollers (to get more separation of the anchors than by just adding one more). Does anyone have two rollers? Do they extend for different lengths to keep the anchors from getting tangled together. If the existing roller has to be removed, what would be the best way to cut off the unneeded pieces.
Date: Sat Sep 2, 2000 4:32 pm
I did not like the two chocks at the forward end because of the stress on the bowsprit and the roller furler/forestay, so I brought them to the root of the bowsprit, at its junction with the deck joint.
I did not like the factory arrangement. I left the two on the sprint, but added two more at the root. I use ONLY the 2 root chocks for mooring lines, and use the two forward ones on the sprint for picking up a mooring buoy temporarily, or for temporary docking lines, or whenever I just need extra "chocks". The leverage they might give is too much, and thus a bad idea in the original design I think.
Date: Sat Sep 2, 2000 4:37 pm
I have a CQR 35 pounder on my SINGLE bow roller also. When a second anchor is necessary, I haul it from the cockpit locker. I, too, would like to know if anyone has developed a viable design for TWO anchors, complete with spacing and usability on the existing sprint.
I am pretty sure that Ken Kotkowski did something unusual (own design) on his boat. I will try to contact him for photos or diagrams.
Date: Sun Sep 3, 2000 6:41 pm
It may be worth noting that, when I'm going to use the 22# Danforth, I cat it over the port bulwork, the stock lashed to the bow pulpit, with the chain reeved outside the pulpit and through a small auxiliary roller bolted to port of the headstay fitting. (the other end of the stock rests against the rub rail.) We carry a 35# plow on the factory bow roller to stb'd.
The Danforh is very secure and rides solidly with flukes outside of bulwork (or toerail?), shank inside. Never had a problem (though a collision on the port bow would cause one). If you go this route, I advise a stainless strip along the top of the teak cap rail from the port aft bow
pulpit stanchion far enough aft to protect against the anchor when it's catted.
If we're not using the Danforth (the plow is our bower) we stow it in a cockpit locker. I put in a second hawse hole to port, matching the factory one to starboard, and built a divider for the chain locker. The bower chain and rode are stowed to stb'd, the Danforth gear to port. It all works fine.
Date: Wed Sep 6, 2000 7:37 pm
Our anchor system contains a single roller upon which is sits the plow anchor. After it is deployed, if we need a second anchor, we have a bruce which is mounted on the port forward deck just aft of the bow rail. This makes a neat arrangement and has worked satisfactorily for the last 15 years.
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Date: Wed Oct 3, 2001 9:06 am If memory serves me, in days long gone by, the sailors visited the bow where a hole was carefully let into the sprit structure so that they were able to perform their ablutions. This "station" was known as the "head" of the ship. Seriously, I replaced the bow sprit on my boat about 1993 and may be able to give you a clue regarding its construction. Mine was, and still is, mahogany formed in planks set aside each other. There were long threaded rods set into a cross bore about every 15 inches I think. The arrangement proved to be far stronger than I had suspected and probably could have easily withstood a repair over the replacement. As far as under-slung anchors go I do love the ease of launching and retrieving them. I sail a Hans Christian 43 quite frequently with this arrangement. In fact I have measured and squiggled and thought about how to do it on the Seawind II frequently but have ultimately abandoned the idea because the amount of material to be removed coupled with the fact that at least two of theses cross bolts would wind up being severed or removed ultimately compromising the strength of the structure. I suggest that removing the apparently useless hood ornament certainly will not compromise the strength if your sprit reveals any evidence of wood plugs along the outer edges, indicating that yours also is built with the same cross bored fastenings. Covering the 3-inch hole my be as easy as fabricating two companion plates from stainless steel and through bolting them to the upper and under surfaces. My carpenter, Wayne, indicates that if the hole is actually 3 inches in diameter that a repair that may be more aesthetic could be accomplished with a plug cut from similar wood. He suggests laminating three layers of mahogany, the grain of each layer laid in different aspects, the top, visible layer to run in the same direction as the plank(s). If in fact you are to use a single, thick plug cut from the same type of material that it be set with the grain across the original much the same as a "dressing" plug for a screw hole. The glue he suggests, particularly if the wood is teak, should be a thickened mixture of epoxy. He does indicate that to maintain the dimensional stability of the plug that the plug be coated well with epoxy alone prior to installing it. similarly he says to sand the inside edges of the hole carefully and seal the interior edges and prevent moisture from wicking any further into the sprit's existing structure. Once set into place, both sides can be sanded and refinished. As a finishing touch he seems to be very familiar with saving the saw dust from the plug cutting operation and using it to thicken a separate amount of epoxy so that the original mounting hardware holes may be filled with a natural wood color similar to the original. This makes the refinishing job much cleaner and makes the smaller holes almost disappear. Date: Mon Oct 8, 2001 10:22 am I've been wanting to get my Danforth off the pulpit and onto a roller. My CQR roller is attached to the center of the of the bowsprit and I didn't want the anchors to hang up if I just added another roller due to fore and aft as well as side to side proximity..Could you please provide detailed specs on your installation. Date: Mon Oct 8, 2001 4:55 pm My Defender catalogue has been taken by a freind who just left for Venezuela-Panama-Pacific with his wife and dog... but The Windline marine Universal (URM1: Post p. 60 or West marine p.642, make sure you use the longer one, 22" rahter than the 15". they are good for all plow anchors 25-45 lb. Mine were from Simpson Lawrence, with two white rollers instead of one black, but not essential, and I can't find my old catalogue. You can see them on Pianissimo at AYC or in November at Brewrs Post Road mamaroneck. |
7039
Oct 8, 2006
I like the two large cleats as they provide two independent line securing posts. This is handy when you decide which side of the bridle to release first, eg, when casting off under sail with a preferred exit tack.
On the other hand, I moved the two chocks from the bowsprit end to the bowsprit foot, where they lie on deck on each side of the bowsprit platform. They are raised on a small teak platform flush with the bowsprit top. I did not like the high and variable (fatigue prone) mooring load to pull at the end of the bowsprit, and to load the forestay and furler. No more bending moment, no stress on the furler/forestay.
Bert dF, 80K
7064
Oct 16, 2006
Hi everyone,Before we left the US we had the original bowsprit replaced with anew, identical, teak platform made of glued together team strips aboutan inch wide. (I might have broken the original one on a shortmooring pennant.) Unfortunately the new one has now come apart at one of the glue lines and I am faced with the decision on how to fix it.
I am considering:
1/ Just clean and fill the crack with epoxy
2/ Glue it together and replace the front stainless bracket with onethat goes the whole width of the platform to hold it together
3/ Replace the whole thing with the stainless monstrosity of mydreams, with 2 anchor rollers and a place for another forestay or adrifter bracket.
4/ Carved mermaid? Nah...Any suggestions?
Also, could you please post any photos you have to the site (
7065
Oct 16, 2006
Jon: You give an excellent reason to bring the two mooring chocks to the junction of bowsprti with deck joint where the hull flares out of th bowsprit platform. I did that when upgrading for offshore my newly bought Pianissimo 80K.
At the time, I also bracketed the platform's tip below with a stainless steel plate, as a counter plate to the two bowrollers installed on each side of the existing centered roller, which I have used once for towing at sea. I changed the decrepit roller furler to a Profurl N42, and installed a "flying" inner forestay with a pelican hook (actually a Dutch Sliphoek), hooking on a chainplate which goes through a slot in the bowsprit to the very stem, on which it is bolted like a traditional outside chainplate.
I'll try to take some pictures. If your platform's teak is in good shape (as was mine, even though it is made of mahogany), I'll start from your 2) and move on the way I did.
Be well, Bert dF, Pianissimo 80K
7066
Oct 16, 2006
John,
About 10 years ago I had my bowsprit replaced after an unfortunate
event. The yard made it of several (4 or 5) mahogany planks which were
glued and bolted together. The transverse bolts (3 or 4) were
countersunk and bunged on both ends. It appears to be a very sound
construction. The glued seams and bungs are almost invisible with no
hint of failure.Good luck.
Mac Odorilla (045K)